Coastal modeling techniques are essential tools for understanding and predicting complex coastal dynamics. These models integrate various physical processes to simulate waves, currents, sediment transport, and morphological changes in coastal environments.
Engineers use coastal models to develop strategies for coastal protection and adaptation. By simulating different scenarios, these models help assess the potential impacts of extreme events, climate change, and human interventions on coastal systems, informing resilience planning and decision-making.
Fundamentals of coastal modeling
Coastal modeling integrates various physical processes to simulate and predict coastal dynamics crucial for resilience engineering
Models provide essential insights into complex interactions between waves, currents, sediment transport, and coastal morphology
Understanding coastal modeling fundamentals enables engineers to develop effective strategies for coastal protection and adaptation
Types of coastal models
Top images from around the web for Types of coastal models
BG - Coastal processes modify projections of some climate-driven stressors in the California ... View original
Is this image relevant?
Frontiers | Prioritizing the protection and creation of natural and nature-based features for ... View original
Is this image relevant?
Frontiers | Collaborative Science to Enhance Coastal Resilience and Adaptation View original
Is this image relevant?
BG - Coastal processes modify projections of some climate-driven stressors in the California ... View original
Is this image relevant?
Frontiers | Prioritizing the protection and creation of natural and nature-based features for ... View original
Is this image relevant?
1 of 3
Top images from around the web for Types of coastal models
BG - Coastal processes modify projections of some climate-driven stressors in the California ... View original
Is this image relevant?
Frontiers | Prioritizing the protection and creation of natural and nature-based features for ... View original
Is this image relevant?
Frontiers | Collaborative Science to Enhance Coastal Resilience and Adaptation View original
Is this image relevant?
BG - Coastal processes modify projections of some climate-driven stressors in the California ... View original
Is this image relevant?
Frontiers | Prioritizing the protection and creation of natural and nature-based features for ... View original
Essential for designing coastal structures and assessing wave-induced
Tidal circulation models
Simulate water movement driven by astronomical tides and meteorological forcing
Incorporate bathymetry, coastline geometry, and Coriolis effects
Use to represent tidal constituents (M2, S2, K1, O1)
Predict tidal currents, water levels, and residual circulation patterns
Applications include navigation, sediment transport studies, and water quality assessments
Sediment transport models
Sediment transport models simulate the movement of sediment particles in coastal environments
These models are crucial for predicting shoreline changes, beach erosion, and accretion processes
Understanding sediment transport is essential for designing coastal protection measures and maintaining navigation channels
Bedload vs suspended load
occurs when particles roll, slide, or saltate along the bed
involves particles carried within the water column by turbulent flow
Total load models combine both bedload and suspended load components
Bedload typically consists of coarser sediments (sand, gravel)
Suspended load includes finer particles (silt, clay) and some sand in high-energy environments
Longshore transport equations
Predict sediment movement parallel to the shoreline due to wave-induced currents
CERC formula calculates potential longshore sediment transport rate:
Q=K⋅Hb5/2⋅sin(2αb)
Where Q is transport rate, K is empirical coefficient, Hb is breaking wave height, and αb is wave angle at breaking
More advanced equations incorporate additional parameters (grain size, beach slope)
Essential for understanding beach evolution and designing coastal structures (groins, jetties)
Cross-shore transport models
Simulate sediment movement perpendicular to the shoreline
Include processes such as wave-induced undertow and swash zone dynamics
Energetics-based models (Bagnold-type) relate sediment flux to wave energy dissipation
Process-based models solve coupled hydrodynamic and sediment transport equations
Applications include predicting beach profile changes during storms and seasonal variations
Morphological models
simulate changes in coastal landforms over time
These models integrate hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes to predict coastal evolution
Understanding morphological changes is crucial for long-term coastal management and adaptation strategies
Shoreline evolution models
Predict changes in shoreline position over time scales of years to decades
One-line models assume a constant beach profile shape that translates horizontally
(GENEralized model for SImulating Shoreline change) widely used for shoreline modeling
Incorporate longshore sediment transport gradients and cross-shore exchange
Applications include assessing impacts of coastal structures and sea-level rise on shorelines
Beach profile models
Simulate cross-shore beach profile changes in response to waves and water levels
Equilibrium profile concepts (Dean's profile) form the basis for many models
Process-based models (, ) simulate sediment transport and profile evolution
Include bar formation, berm erosion, and dune recession processes
Essential for predicting beach response to storms and designing beach nourishment projects
Barrier island migration models
Simulate long-term evolution of barrier islands in response to sea-level rise and storms
Incorporate overwash processes, inlet dynamics, and back-barrier sedimentation
Morphological-behavior models use simplified rules to represent complex processes