3.2 Medieval European Dress

Medieval European dress evolved dramatically from the 12th to 15th centuries. Tunics like the bliaut and cotehardie gave way to elaborate outer garments such as the houppelande and surcoat, showcasing wealth and status through rich fabrics and decorations.

Headwear and accessories played a crucial role in medieval fashion. Distinctive pieces like the hennin and wimple for women, along with functional items like chausses, reflected social standing and cultural norms. Heraldry on clothing served as a visual language of identity and affiliation.

Outer Garments

Evolution of Medieval Tunics

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• Bliaut emerged as a long, loose-fitting tunic worn by both men and women in the 12th century
  • Featured wide sleeves and a fitted bodice
  • Often made of rich fabrics like silk or fine wool
  • Decorated with embroidery or jewels for nobility
• Cotehardie developed in the 14th century as a close-fitting garment
  • Characterized by its buttoned front and long, tight sleeves
  • Worn by both sexes but more commonly associated with men's fashion
  • Extended from shoulders to hips or knees, showcasing the wearer's figure

Elaborate Outer Layers

• Houppelande introduced in the late 14th century as a voluminous outer garment
  • Distinctive for its full, flaring sleeves and high collar
  • Often fur-lined and made of luxurious fabrics (velvet, brocade)
  • Length varied from knee to floor-length, depending on the wearer's status
• Surcoat evolved from a simple sleeveless garment worn over armor
  • Transformed into a fashionable item for both men and women by the 13th century
  • Often adorned with heraldic designs or family crests
  • Women's surcoats sometimes featured side openings to display the underlying dress
• Tabard originated as a short, sleeveless garment worn by knights over armor
  • Later adopted by civilians as a fashionable outer layer
  • Commonly displayed heraldic symbols or occupational insignia
  • Became associated with heralds and messengers in later medieval periods

Headwear and Accessories

Distinctive Headpieces

• Hennin emerged as a conical or steeple-shaped headdress for women in the 15th century
  • Often adorned with a flowing veil or drapery
  • Height and elaborateness indicated the wearer's social status
  • Variations included the butterfly hennin with wing-like protrusions
• Wimple served as a cloth head-covering for women, covering the neck and sides of the face
  • Originated as a sign of modesty and piety
  • Worn by both religious women and lay noblewomen
  • Often combined with a veil or other headdresses for added sophistication

Functional Accessories and Symbolism

• Chausses functioned as leg coverings, similar to modern-day stockings or leggings
  • Made of wool, linen, or silk depending on the wearer's status
  • Attached to the braies (undergarments) with laces called points
  • Evolved into joined hose in the late medieval period
• Heraldry played a crucial role in medieval fashion and identification
  • Incorporated into clothing, shields, and banners
  • Utilized specific colors, patterns, and symbols to represent families or individuals
  • Served as a visual language of social and political affiliations

Societal Influences

Regulation and Control of Fashion

• Sumptuary laws enacted to regulate clothing based on social class and wealth
  • Restricted the use of certain fabrics, colors, and styles to specific ranks
  • Aimed to maintain social hierarchies and prevent excessive spending
  • Often dictated the types of furs, jewels, and textiles allowed for each class
• Guilds exerted significant influence over medieval fashion production and trade
  • Organized craftsmen into specialized groups (weavers, tailors, embroiderers)
  • Controlled quality standards and pricing of textile goods
  • Regulated apprenticeship systems, ensuring the transmission of skills and techniques
  • Played a role in developing and maintaining local fashion traditions

Economic and Cultural Factors

• Rise of urban centers and international trade influenced fashion trends
  • Increased availability of exotic fabrics and dyes (silk from China, cotton from India)
  • Cultural exchanges led to the adoption of foreign styles and techniques
• Religious beliefs and practices shaped clothing choices
  • Monastic orders adhered to specific dress codes
  • Pilgrimage and crusades introduced new fashion elements from the East
• Technological advancements in textile production impacted clothing styles
  • Introduction of the horizontal loom allowed for wider fabrics
  • Development of new weaving techniques created more intricate patterns and textures