4.3 Elizabethan Costume: Ruffs, Farthingales, and Sumptuary Laws

Elizabethan fashion was all about showing off. Ruffs started small but grew into massive neck accessories, while farthingales gave women that coveted cone shape. These styles weren't just for looks – they screamed wealth and status.

Sumptuary laws tried to keep people in their fashion lanes, but folks got creative. Clothing became a way to climb the social ladder, with everyone trying to dress like the elite. Even Queen Elizabeth herself set trends that the whole court rushed to copy.

Elizabethan Fashion Elements

Describe the structure and evolution of ruffs during the Elizabethan era

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• Origin of ruffs evolved from small frills on collars and cuffs became separate accessory in mid-16th century
• Construction methods utilized fine linen or lawn fabric starched and set into intricate pleats or folds
• Evolution of ruff styles progressed from small and simple to larger and more elaborate culminating in extreme sizes and complexity (cartwheel ruffs)
• Supporting structures included supportasses wire frames held ruffs in place and piccadills stiffened collar bands provided additional support

Explain the purpose and design of farthingales in Elizabethan women's fashion

• Farthingales structured undergarments created cone-shaped silhouette emphasizing small waist and wide hips
• Types of farthingales included Spanish farthingale cone-shaped hoop skirt and French farthingale padded roll worn at hips
• Construction materials incorporated hoops made of wood whalebone or metal covered with fabric and padding
• Evolution of farthingale styles progressed from moderate size and shape to wider and more exaggerated silhouettes (drum farthingale)
• Impact on overall dress design influenced shape of outer garments required adaptation of other clothing elements (petticoats bodices)

Elizabethan Social and Legal Context

Analyze the impact of sumptuary laws on Elizabethan costume

• Purpose of sumptuary laws regulated clothing based on social class controlled excessive spending on luxurious garments
• Key regulations restricted fabric types for different social ranks limited colors particularly purple for royalty ruled use of fur trims and jewelry
• Enforcement methods imposed fines for violations implemented public shaming of offenders
• Effects on fashion and society reinforced social hierarchies through visual distinctions stimulated creativity in circumventing restrictions influenced development of new fabrics and styles (faux fur slashed fabrics)

Discuss the relationship between Elizabethan costume and social status

• Clothing as visual indicator of rank demonstrated through quality and type of fabrics complexity of garment construction use of embellishments and accessories
• Specific status markers included ruffs size and elaborateness indicated wealth farthingales larger styles associated with higher status jewelry and precious metals restricted to upper classes
• Fashion as tool for social mobility enabled emulation of higher-class styles by rising middle class encouraged use of clothing to project aspirational status
• Royal influence on fashion trends established Queen Elizabeth I as style icon set court fashion standards for elite (Elizabethan collar peascod belly doublet)