👯‍♀️Costume History Unit 5 – Baroque and Rococo Costume

Historical Context

• Baroque period spanned from the early 17th century to the mid-18th century
• Originated in Italy and spread throughout Europe (France, England, Spain, and the Netherlands)
• Characterized by grandeur, drama, and opulence in art, architecture, and fashion
• Coincided with the rise of absolute monarchies and the Catholic Counter-Reformation
  • Monarchs used fashion to display wealth and power
  • Catholic Church encouraged lavish displays to counter Protestant austerity
• Influenced by the scientific revolution and the Age of Enlightenment
  • Advancements in textile production and dyeing techniques
  • Increased global trade introduced new fabrics and designs
• Marked by significant events such as the Thirty Years' War and the reign of Louis XIV of France (the Sun King)

Key Characteristics of Baroque Style

• Emphasized grandeur, luxury, and extravagance in clothing and accessories
• Featured rich, heavy fabrics with intricate embroidery, lace, and embellishments
• Incorporated bold colors, patterns, and contrasting textures
• Displayed a sense of movement and dynamism through voluminous silhouettes and flowing lines
• Demonstrated attention to detail and craftsmanship in tailoring and construction
• Reflected the social hierarchy and status through sumptuary laws and dress codes
• Influenced by the artistic styles of the time, such as Baroque painting and sculpture
  • Clothing mirrored the dramatic lighting, strong contrasts, and exaggerated forms

Baroque Fashion Silhouettes

• Women's silhouette characterized by a long, rigid bodice and full skirts
  • Bodice featured a low, square neckline and was tightly fitted to the waist
  • Skirts were voluminous and supported by a framework of hoops or panniers
• Men's silhouette consisted of a long, fitted coat (justaucorps) and breeches
  • Coat had a high collar, wide cuffs, and was often decorated with buttons and embroidery
  • Breeches were knee-length and fastened with ribbons or buckles
• Both genders wore high-heeled shoes, often with buckles or rosettes
• Hairstyles were elaborate and often supplemented with wigs
  • Women's hair was arranged in curls and adorned with ribbons, feathers, and jewels
  • Men's wigs were long, curled, and powdered

Fabrics and Materials

• Heavy, luxurious fabrics such as silk, velvet, and brocade were favored
• Wool and linen were used for undergarments and everyday clothing
• Fabrics were often embellished with embroidery, lace, and metallic thread
• Patterns included floral motifs, stripes, and geometric designs
• Colors were rich and vibrant, with a preference for deep hues (crimson, navy, emerald)
• Textiles were imported from various regions, including Italy, France, and the East Indies
  • Silk from China and India
  • Cotton from India and the Americas
  • Lace from Flanders and Venice

Accessories and Embellishments

• Accessories played a crucial role in completing the Baroque fashion ensemble
• Jewelry was elaborate and often featured precious stones (diamonds, pearls, rubies)
  • Necklaces, earrings, brooches, and rings were worn in abundance
• Fans were a popular accessory for women, often made of silk or lace and decorated with painting or embroidery
• Gloves were worn by both men and women, made of leather or fine fabrics and often embellished
• Hats and headwear were diverse, ranging from wide-brimmed hats to caps and hoods
  • Women's headwear included fontanges (high headdresses) and lace caps
  • Men's hats included tricornes, bicornes, and wide-brimmed hats with feathers
• Shoes were made of leather or fabric and often featured high heels and decorative buckles
• Embellishments such as ribbons, bows, and rosettes were used to decorate clothing and accessories

Rococo: Evolution from Baroque

• Rococo style emerged in the early 18th century as a reaction to the formality and grandeur of Baroque
• Characterized by a lighter, more playful, and intimate aesthetic
• Emphasized pastel colors, delicate floral patterns, and asymmetrical designs
• Women's silhouette became more relaxed, with a focus on comfort and ease of movement
  • Panniers were replaced by smaller, more flexible hoops (pocket hoops)
  • Bodices were shorter and more revealing, with a lower neckline and exposed shoulders
• Men's fashion became more refined and elegant, with a focus on tailoring and fit
  • Coats became shorter and more fitted, with a narrow waist and wide cuffs
  • Breeches were replaced by longer, close-fitting trousers (culottes)
• Hairstyles became more natural and less elaborate, with a preference for powdered hair and smaller wigs
• Accessories remained important but became more delicate and refined (smaller fans, daintier jewelry)

Influential Figures and Trendsetters

• Louis XIV of France (the Sun King) set the standard for Baroque fashion and etiquette
  • His court at Versailles was a center of fashion and style
  • Established the fashion industry in France and promoted French textiles and craftsmanship
• Marie Antoinette, Queen of France, was a key figure in the Rococo period
  • Known for her extravagant taste in fashion and her influence on court style
  • Popularized pastel colors, floral patterns, and elaborate hairstyles (the pouf)
• Madame de Pompadour, mistress of Louis XV, was a trendsetter and patron of the arts
  • Influenced the Rococo aesthetic through her patronage of artists and designers
  • Known for her elegant and refined style, which emphasized comfort and informality
• English aristocrats, such as Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire, also played a role in shaping fashion
  • Introduced a more relaxed and informal style, with a focus on country living and outdoor activities
  • Popularized the English style of dress, which featured simpler silhouettes and practical fabrics

Legacy and Impact on Modern Fashion

• Baroque and Rococo styles continue to influence fashion designers and trends
• The emphasis on luxury, craftsmanship, and attention to detail is still evident in haute couture and high-end fashion
• Baroque-inspired designs often feature rich fabrics, embroidery, and embellishments (Dolce & Gabbana, Versace)
• Rococo-inspired designs incorporate pastel colors, floral patterns, and feminine silhouettes (Chanel, Dior)
• The use of corsets and structured undergarments in modern fashion can be traced back to the Baroque period
• The influence of Baroque and Rococo can be seen in bridal and evening wear, with elaborate gowns and intricate details
• Contemporary fashion often references historical styles through the use of ruffles, lace, and other decorative elements
• The legacy of Baroque and Rococo fashion is evident in the continued appreciation for craftsmanship, luxury, and self-expression through clothing.