5.2 Rococo Costume: Lightness, Frivolity, and the French Influence

The Rococo era marked a shift from Baroque formality to lighter, more elegant styles. Comfort and luxury merged as fashion embraced pastel hues, delicate fabrics, and playful decorations. This change reflected the growing focus on leisure and pleasure in 18th-century society.

French influence dominated Rococo fashion, spreading across Europe and beyond. Key figures like Madame de Pompadour and Marie Antoinette set trends, while designers like Rose Bertin created innovative styles. This global impact shaped fashion's evolution, leaving a lasting legacy.

The Transition to Rococo Fashion

Baroque to Rococo fashion shift

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• Baroque fashion featured heavy fabrics, dark rich colors, elaborate embroidery, and stiff silhouettes (brocade, velvet)
• Rococo emerged as reaction against Baroque formality emphasized comfort and elegance with lighter fabrics and colors, more relaxed silhouettes (silk taffeta, pastel hues)
• Late 17th century saw peak of Baroque style gradually shifting towards Rococo in early 18th century, reaching full bloom 1730s-1770s
• Rise of salon culture, increased focus on leisure and pleasure, growing bourgeoisie influence drove transition

Key elements of Rococo style

• Pastel color palette included pale pink, light blue, mint green, soft yellows and lavenders with white as popular base
• Fabrics featured silk taffeta, satin, brocade, fine cotton, muslin, and lace (Chantilly, Alençon)
• Decorative elements incorporated floral motifs, nature-inspired patterns, ribbons, bows, ruffles, frills, rocaille and coquille ornaments
• Women's silhouettes included panniers for wide horizontal skirts, robe à la française open front gowns, decorative triangular stomachers
• Men wore knee-length justaucorps coats, elaborately embroidered waistcoats, knee-length culottes breeches
• Accessories featured folding and fixed fans, masquerade masks, elaborate wigs, and backless heeled mules shoes

French Influence and Global Impact

Influential figures in Rococo trends

• Madame de Pompadour, Louis XV's mistress, popularized pompadour hairstyle and commissioned designs from famous couturiers
• Marie Antoinette's extravagant choices influenced court fashion, popularized pouf hairstyle
• Rose Bertin, Marie Antoinette's "Minister of Fashion" dressmaker, created innovative designs and established first haute couture house
• Marquise de Maintenon and Duchesse de Fontanges introduced influential styles like the fontange headdress

French Rococo's European impact

• England adopted French styles with modifications, developed English-style gown, influenced men's three-piece suit
• Venetian fashion incorporated Rococo elements, popularized masquerade costumes
• German and Austrian courts adapted French styles with regional folk dress variations
• Spain slowly adopted Rococo trends while maintaining some traditional elements
• Russia embraced French fashion through Peter the Great's westernization and Catherine the Great's influence
• Colonial expansion spread Rococo to Americas, adapting to local climates and materials
• International trade facilitated importation of exotic fabrics, diplomatic relations exchanged fashion ideas
• Rococo's legacy influenced future Neoclassicism and Romanticism styles, revived in 1950s New Look