👯‍♀️Costume History Unit 7 – 19th Century Costume: Empire to Victorian

Historical Context

• The 19th century was a time of significant political, social, and economic changes that influenced fashion
• Industrial Revolution led to advancements in textile production and manufacturing, making clothing more accessible and affordable
• Rise of the middle class created a new market for fashionable clothing and accessories
• Victorian era (1837-1901) named after Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom, who reigned during this period
• Rapid urbanization and growth of cities changed the way people lived, worked, and dressed
• Increased global trade introduced new fabrics, dyes, and design influences from around the world (Asia, Africa)
• Colonialism and imperialism shaped fashion trends, with Western countries drawing inspiration from their colonies
• Changing gender roles and expectations influenced clothing styles for both men and women

Key Fashion Periods

• Empire period (late 1790s to 1820s) characterized by high-waisted, lightweight dresses inspired by ancient Greek and Roman styles
• Romantic period (1820s to 1850s) featured more elaborate, feminine styles with fuller skirts, tight bodices, and puffed sleeves
• Crinoline period (1850s to 1860s) defined by large, dome-shaped skirts supported by hooped petticoats or crinolines
• Bustle period (1870s to 1890s) emphasized the rear silhouette with the use of bustles and drapery
  • First Bustle period (early 1870s) featured a high, narrow bustle
  • Natural Form period (late 1870s to early 1880s) favored a slimmer, more natural silhouette
  • Second Bustle period (mid-1880s) saw the return of a more pronounced bustle
• Belle Époque (1890s to early 1900s) marked a transition towards a more relaxed, flowing silhouette with influences from Art Nouveau

Influential Designers and Figures

• Charles Frederick Worth, considered the father of haute couture, established the first fashion house in Paris
• Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III, was a fashion icon and trendsetter during the Second Empire in France
• Queen Victoria's personal style influenced fashion throughout her long reign, particularly in terms of modesty and propriety
• Paul Poiret, a French designer, introduced a more relaxed, uncorseted silhouette in the early 20th century
• Jeanne Paquin, the first woman to head a major Parisian fashion house, known for her elegant and feminine designs
• Jacques Doucet, a French designer renowned for his exquisite craftsmanship and attention to detail
• Liberty & Co., a British department store, popularized artistic dress and Japanese-inspired aesthetics

Silhouettes and Styles

• Empire waistline, a high-waisted style that emphasized the bust and flowed loosely over the body
• Gigot sleeves, also known as leg-of-mutton sleeves, were voluminous and puffy at the upper arm, tapering to a fitted cuff
• Corsets were an essential undergarment throughout the 19th century, shaping the body and supporting the bust
• Crinolines, hooped petticoats made of steel or whalebone, created the iconic dome-shaped skirts of the mid-19th century
• Bustles, padding or a framework worn at the back of the waist, emphasized the rear silhouette
• Polonaise, a style of dress with a draped, gathered overskirt, popular in the 1870s and 1880s
• Tailored jackets and coats became increasingly fashionable for women, reflecting a more active lifestyle
• Tea gowns, loose, unstructured dresses worn at home for informal occasions, gained popularity in the late 19th century

Fabrics and Materials

• Cotton was widely used for everyday clothing, as well as undergarments and linings
• Silk remained a luxury fabric, prized for its luster, drape, and comfort
• Wool was popular for outerwear, such as coats, capes, and shawls
• Linen was used for summer clothing, as well as undergarments and household textiles
• Velvet, a plush, luxurious fabric, was favored for evening wear and accessories
• Lace, both handmade and machine-made, was used for trimmings, collars, and entire garments
• Paisley, a distinctive teardrop-shaped pattern, gained popularity through imported Kashmir shawls
• Technological advancements, such as the Jacquard loom, enabled the production of intricate woven patterns and designs

Accessories and Embellishments

• Bonnets, caps, and hats were essential accessories for women, often decorated with ribbons, flowers, and feathers
• Parasols and umbrellas protected women's skin from the sun and served as fashionable accessories
• Gloves were worn for both practical and decorative purposes, with different styles for day and evening wear
• Fans, often made of intricately carved ivory or painted silk, were used for communication and flirtation
• Jewelry, such as cameos, lockets, and brooches, was popular for personal adornment
• Buttons, often made of mother-of-pearl or jet, were used both functionally and decoratively on clothing
• Fringe, tassels, and passementerie trims added texture and movement to dresses and outerwear
• Embroidery, needlework, and beading were used to embellish clothing and accessories

Social and Cultural Influences

• Victorian morality and the concept of separate spheres for men and women influenced fashion and behavior
• The Aesthetic Movement (1860s-1890s) emphasized beauty, art, and individual expression in dress
• Dress reform movements, such as the Rational Dress Society, advocated for more practical and comfortable clothing for women
• The Suffragette movement in the early 20th century used fashion as a tool for political expression and identity
• The rise of department stores and ready-to-wear clothing made fashion more accessible to a wider range of people
• The growth of fashion magazines, such as Harper's Bazaar and Vogue, disseminated fashion information and trends
• The advent of photography allowed for more accurate documentation and dissemination of fashion
• Etiquette manuals and conduct books prescribed appropriate dress and behavior for various social occasions

Fashion in Art and Literature

• Fashion plates, hand-colored illustrations of the latest styles, were popular in magazines and newspapers
• Portrait painting captured the fashions of the elite and influential figures of the time (Queen Victoria, Madame X by John Singer Sargent)
• Impressionist artists, such as Claude Monet and Pierre-Auguste Renoir, depicted fashionable society in their paintings
• Novelists, such as Jane Austen and Edith Wharton, used clothing descriptions to convey character and social status
• Charles Dickens' novels often featured detailed descriptions of clothing and fashion, reflecting societal norms and expectations
• Oscar Wilde's works, such as "The Picture of Dorian Gray," explored the relationship between fashion, beauty, and morality
• Fashion and costume were an integral part of theater and performance, with designers creating elaborate stage outfits
• The Arts and Crafts Movement, led by William Morris, influenced textile design and promoted a return to traditional craftsmanship