8.3 The Roaring Twenties: Flappers, Art Deco, and Modernism

The 1920s brought a fashion revolution. Flapper style embraced boyish figures and shorter hemlines, while Art Deco influenced geometric patterns and bold colors. These changes reflected women's empowerment, economic boom, and cultural shifts of the era.

Iconic designers like Coco Chanel and Paul Poiret shaped the Roaring Twenties look. The decade marked a stark contrast to Edwardian fashion, with silhouettes evolving from corseted to straight, and hemlines rising dramatically from floor-length to knee-length.

Fashion Trends and Influences

Flapper style characteristics and impact

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• Silhouette embraced straight, boyish figure with dropped waistline and knee-length hemlines
• Clothing items featured sleeveless dresses, cloche hats, and T-strap shoes
• Accessories included long strands of pearls, headbands with feathers or jewels, and cigarette holders
• Makeup and hair emphasized bold, dark lipstick, kohl-rimmed eyes, and bobbed haircuts
• Impact on fashion industry led to mass production of ready-to-wear clothing, popularized synthetic fabrics (rayon), and shifted towards more practical, comfortable clothing

Art Deco influence on fashion

• Art Deco elements incorporated geometric patterns, bold contrasting colors, and exotic motifs (Egyptian, African, Asian)
• Modernist principles emphasized functionality, rejected ornate decorations, and favored clean lines and simple shapes
• Textile patterns featured abstract designs, Cubist-inspired prints, and stylized floral motifs
• Jewelry and accessories showcased angular, streamlined designs, used new materials (bakelite, chrome), and incorporated industrial elements

Factors in 1920s fashion changes

• Women's empowerment through suffrage movement, increased workforce participation, and changing social norms
• Post-war economic boom fostered rise of consumer culture, increased disposable income, and growth of entertainment industry
• Technological advancements improved textile manufacturing, introduced new synthetic fabrics, and enhanced garment construction techniques
• Cultural shifts embraced Jazz Age and dance culture, Prohibition and speakeasy culture, and influence of Hollywood and celebrity fashion
• Transportation developments popularized automobiles and increased international travel, influencing fashion trends

Iconic designers of Roaring Twenties

• Coco Chanel introduced little black dress, popularized costume jewelry, and used jersey fabric in high fashion
• Paul Poiret created Oriental-inspired designs, harem pants, and lampshade tunics
• Jeanne Lanvin designed Robe de style dresses, intricate embroideries, and mother-daughter matching outfits
• Madeleine Vionnet pioneered bias cut technique, created Grecian-inspired draping, and championed minimalist designs
• Elsa Schiaparelli developed Surrealist-inspired designs, introduced shocking pink color, and collaborated with artists

1920s vs Edwardian fashion trends

• Silhouette changed from Edwardian S-curve, corseted figure to 1920s straight, boyish figure
• Hemlines rose from Edwardian floor-length skirts to 1920s knee-length dresses
• Undergarments evolved from Edwardian corsets and petticoats to 1920s brassieres and step-in panties
• Fabrics shifted from Edwardian heavy, luxurious materials to 1920s lighter, more practical fabrics (cotton, wool)
• Color palettes transitioned from Edwardian soft, pastel hues to 1920s bold, vibrant colors
• Hairstyles transformed from Edwardian elaborate updos to 1920s short, bobbed cuts
• Accessories changed from Edwardian parasols and gloves to 1920s long necklaces and headbands
• Menswear influences expanded from Edwardian limited tailored suits to 1920s adoption of traditionally masculine elements in women's wear (trousers, ties)