Ocean waves and tides shape our coasts and seas. Wind creates waves, while the moon and sun cause tides. These forces constantly move water, affecting everything from tiny organisms to massive shorelines.
Coastal processes like erosion and deposition sculpt beaches and cliffs. These dynamics impact marine life and human activities, influencing where we build, swim, and sail. Understanding these patterns helps us protect and enjoy our coasts.
Ocean Waves
Characteristics of ocean waves
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Formation of ocean waves
Wind blows over water surface transferring energy from wind to water creating waves
Factors affecting wave characteristics include wind speed, duration, and fetch (distance wind blows over water)
Wave height measures vertical distance between wave crest and trough
Wave period measures time for two consecutive wave crests to pass a fixed point
Wavelength measures horizontal distance between two consecutive wave crests or troughs
Water depth and ocean floor topography also influence wave characteristics
Tides and Coastal Processes
Causes and effects of tides
Gravitational pull of moon and sun on Earth's oceans causes tides
Moon's influence stronger due to proximity to Earth
Spring tides occur during new and full moons when sun, moon, and Earth align
Result in higher high tides and lower low tides
Neap tides occur during first and third quarter moons when sun and moon are perpendicular
Result in lower high tides and higher low tides
Tides cause intertidal zones to experience cyclical exposure and submersion
Tidal currents influence water circulation and nutrient distribution in coastal areas
Processes in coastal environments
Erosion involves removal and transport of sediment by waves, currents, and wind
Hydraulic action: force of waves hitting shoreline
Abrasion: sediment carried by waves scraping against shoreline
Attrition: collision of sediment particles reducing their size
Deposition involves accumulation of sediment transported by waves and currents
Occurs when wave energy decreases allowing sediment to settle
Leads to formation of coastal features (beaches, spits, barrier islands)
Longshore drift transports sediment along shoreline by waves approaching at an angle
Results in gradual movement of sediment and reshaping of coastline
Impact of coastal dynamics
Marine ecosystems
Intertidal zones support diverse communities adapted to cyclical exposure and submersion
Coastal erosion and deposition create and modify habitats (rocky shores, sandy beaches)
Tidal currents influence nutrient distribution and larval dispersal
Human activities
Coastal development and infrastructure vulnerable to erosion and flooding
Navigation and shipping affected by tides and tidal currents
Recreational activities (surfing, beach -going) depend on wave conditions
Coastal management strategies (beach nourishment, seawall construction) aim to mitigate effects of erosion and protect coastal communities