11.1 Precious metalwork and jewelry

Precious metalwork and jewelry have been integral to human culture for millennia. From ancient Egyptian gold to modern platinum designs, these crafts showcase our mastery of rare materials and artistic expression.

Techniques like casting, filigree, and gemstone setting transform raw metals into stunning works of art. These skills, honed over generations, allow artisans to create everything from delicate pendants to ornate crowns, reflecting the cultural values and aesthetic preferences of their time.

Precious Metal Techniques

Goldsmithing and Silversmithing

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• Goldsmithing involves working with gold to create jewelry and decorative objects
  • Requires specialized tools (hammers, pliers, files)
  • Techniques include melting, shaping, and soldering gold
• Silversmithing focuses on crafting items from silver
  • Shares many techniques with goldsmithing
  • Often involves creating larger objects (tableware, decorative vessels)
• Both crafts require extensive knowledge of metal properties and behavior
• Artisans must understand how to manipulate the metal's malleability and ductility

Alloys and Casting

• Alloys combine two or more metals to enhance properties
  • Gold alloys often include silver or copper to increase durability
  • Sterling silver consists of 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper
• Casting creates objects by pouring molten metal into molds
  • Lost-wax casting produces intricate designs
    • Wax model is created, covered in clay, melted out, and replaced with metal
  • Sand casting uses sand molds for simpler shapes
• Both techniques allow for mass production of identical pieces

Shaping and Forming Techniques

• Hammering transforms flat metal sheets into three-dimensional forms
  • Raising involves hammering metal over specialized stakes
  • Planishing smooths hammer marks and refines the shape
• Forging shapes metal through controlled hammering while hot
  • Used for creating larger pieces or intricate designs
• Rolling mills thin metal sheets to desired thickness
• Drawing pulls metal through progressively smaller dies to create wire

Decorative Techniques

Surface Embellishments

• Filigree uses thin metal wires to create delicate, lace-like patterns
  • Wires are twisted, curled, and soldered to form intricate designs
  • Often combined with granulation for added texture
• Granulation adorns surfaces with tiny metal spheres
  • Spheres are created by melting small pieces of metal
  • Attached using a metallurgical process without visible solder
• Enameling applies colored glass to metal surfaces
  • Cloisonné uses wire boundaries to separate enamel colors
  • Champlevé involves carving recesses in metal to hold enamel

Relief and Inlay Techniques

• Inlay embeds materials into the surface of metal
  • Materials can include precious stones, other metals, or wood
  • Creates contrast and adds color to metalwork
• Repoussé forms raised designs by hammering from the back
  • Metal is supported by pitch or other flexible material
  • Creates a three-dimensional effect on the front surface
• Chasing refines and defines repoussé work from the front
  • Uses various punches and hammers to add detail
  • Can be used independently to create low-relief designs

Embellishments

Gemstone Setting Techniques

• Bezel setting encircles the stone with a metal rim
  • Provides secure hold and protects stone edges
  • Can be used for cabochons or faceted stones
• Prong setting uses metal claws to hold the stone
  • Allows more light to enter the stone, enhancing brilliance
  • Common in engagement rings and other fine jewelry
• Pavé setting covers surfaces with small, closely-set stones
  • Creates a continuous sparkle effect
  • Requires precise placement and secure setting of many small gems
• Channel setting aligns stones in a metal groove
  • Often used for wedding bands or bracelet accents
  • Protects stones while creating a sleek, modern look