12.4 Indigenous fashion and design

Indigenous fashion blends traditional styles with modern design, celebrating cultural heritage while appealing to wider audiences. It serves as a form of expression, resistance, and empowerment for Indigenous communities across the Americas.

Contemporary Indigenous designers are gaining recognition, challenging stereotypes, and showcasing innovation. Their work reflects cultural identity, preserves traditions, and addresses issues of representation and appropriation in mainstream fashion.

Traditional Indigenous clothing

• Traditional Indigenous clothing reflects the diverse cultures, environments, and resources of Indigenous communities across the Americas
• Clothing styles, materials, and techniques vary widely between regions and tribes, each with their own unique traditions and cultural significance
• Traditional clothing plays an important role in Indigenous identity, spirituality, and social structures

Materials and techniques

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• Indigenous clothing is often made from natural materials sourced from the local environment, such as animal hides (deer, buffalo), furs, and plant fibers (cotton, bark)
• Techniques for creating clothing include tanning, weaving, beading, and embroidery
  • Tanning involves treating animal hides to make them soft and pliable for use in clothing and accessories
  • Weaving techniques, such as basketry and textile weaving, are used to create garments and accessories from plant fibers
  • Beadwork and embroidery are used to decorate clothing with intricate designs and patterns that hold cultural and spiritual significance

Regional variations

• Clothing styles and materials vary based on the climate, resources, and cultural traditions of each region
  • In the Arctic, Inuit and Yupik peoples traditionally wear parkas made from caribou or seal skin to stay warm in the harsh climate
  • In the Southwest, Navajo and Hopi peoples are known for their woven textiles, including blankets and dresses
  • In the Plains region, tribes like the Lakota and Cheyenne are known for their elaborate beadwork on hide clothing

Ceremonial vs everyday wear

• Indigenous clothing often has different styles and significance for ceremonial and everyday wear
• Ceremonial clothing is often more elaborate and heavily decorated, with specific designs and colors holding spiritual and cultural meaning
  • Jingle dresses, worn by women in some Plains tribes, are used in healing ceremonies and feature rows of metal cones that create a jingling sound when dancing
• Everyday clothing is typically simpler and more practical, though still reflecting cultural identity and values
  • In many tribes, moccasins are a common form of everyday footwear, made from soft leather and often decorated with beadwork or quillwork

Contemporary Indigenous fashion

• Contemporary Indigenous fashion blends traditional styles, techniques, and cultural motifs with modern design elements and materials
• Indigenous designers are creating innovative and stylish clothing that celebrates their cultural heritage while appealing to a wider audience
• Contemporary Indigenous fashion serves as a form of cultural expression, resistance, and empowerment

Blending tradition and modernity

• Indigenous designers often incorporate traditional materials, techniques, and designs into contemporary clothing styles
  • Designer Jamie Okuma (Luiseño/Shoshone-Bannock) creates modern footwear and accessories featuring intricate beadwork inspired by traditional Native American designs
• Mixing traditional and modern elements allows designers to create unique and meaningful clothing that reflects their cultural identity in a contemporary context

Indigenous designers and brands

• A growing number of Indigenous-owned fashion brands and designers are gaining recognition in the fashion industry
  • Ginew, an Ojibwe-owned denim brand, creates high-quality jeans and jackets with details inspired by Ojibwe culture and history
  • Sho Sho Esquiro (Kaska Dene/Cree) is a haute couture designer known for her use of traditional materials like fish skin and fur in her collections
• These designers and brands are challenging stereotypes and showcasing the diversity and innovation of Indigenous fashion

Fashion as cultural expression

• For many Indigenous people, fashion is a way to express pride in their cultural heritage and assert their identity in the face of ongoing colonialism and cultural assimilation
• Wearing Indigenous-designed clothing can be a form of resistance against cultural appropriation and misrepresentation
• Contemporary Indigenous fashion allows for the continuation and evolution of cultural traditions, ensuring their preservation for future generations

Representation in mainstream fashion

• The representation of Indigenous cultures and designs in mainstream fashion has been a contentious issue, with concerns about cultural appropriation and misrepresentation
• However, there are also examples of respectful collaborations and increased visibility for Indigenous models and designers in the fashion industry

Cultural appropriation vs appreciation

• Cultural appropriation occurs when non-Indigenous designers or brands use Indigenous designs, motifs, or cultural elements without proper understanding, respect, or compensation
  • In 2015, fashion brand KTZ faced backlash for using a Inuit shaman's sacred design on a sweater without permission or acknowledgment
• Cultural appreciation, on the other hand, involves respectful collaboration, credit, and compensation for Indigenous creatives and communities
  • In 2020, Manitobah Mukluks, an Indigenous-owned footwear brand, collaborated with Dene artist Tania Larsson to create a collection featuring her designs, with a portion of proceeds going to support Indigenous artists

Indigenous models and campaigns

• Indigenous models are increasingly being featured in fashion campaigns and runway shows, providing visibility and representation for Indigenous peoples in the fashion industry
  • In 2019, Vogue Mexico featured an all-Indigenous cover and photoshoot, showcasing the diversity and beauty of Indigenous cultures in Mexico
• However, there is still a need for greater representation and opportunities for Indigenous models, as well as more diverse and accurate portrayals of Indigenous cultures in fashion media

Collaborations with non-Indigenous brands

• Some non-Indigenous fashion brands have collaborated with Indigenous designers or communities to create collections that respectfully incorporate Indigenous designs and support Indigenous creators
  • In 2021, fashion brand Faherty collaborated with Diné (Navajo) designer Jared Yazzie to create a capsule collection featuring his artwork, with a portion of proceeds benefiting the Navajo Nation's COVID-19 relief efforts
• These collaborations can provide opportunities for Indigenous designers and help educate non-Indigenous audiences about Indigenous cultures, but they must be approached with care and respect to avoid cultural appropriation

Fashion and Indigenous identity

• For many Indigenous people, fashion is deeply connected to their cultural identity and sense of belonging
• Clothing can serve as a visible marker of Indigenous identity, helping to maintain cultural traditions and assert sovereignty in the face of ongoing colonialism and assimilation

Clothing as cultural marker

• Specific clothing styles, designs, and accessories can signify an individual's tribal affiliation, clan, or family
  • In some Coast Salish tribes, woven cedar bark hats are worn by high-ranking individuals and signify their status and role within the community
• Wearing traditional or Indigenous-designed clothing can be a way for Indigenous people to express pride in their heritage and connect with their ancestors and cultural traditions

Fashion and decolonization

• For some Indigenous people, fashion can be a tool for decolonization and reclaiming cultural identity
• By wearing Indigenous-designed clothing and rejecting Western fashion norms, Indigenous people can assert their sovereignty and challenge the dominant culture's attempts at assimilation
• Indigenous fashion can also serve as a form of resistance against cultural appropriation and misrepresentation, by allowing Indigenous people to control the narrative around their own cultures and designs

Pride in Indigenous heritage

• Wearing Indigenous fashion can be a powerful way for Indigenous people to express pride in their cultural heritage and celebrate their identity
• Indigenous fashion allows for the continuation and evolution of cultural traditions, ensuring that they are passed down to future generations
• By wearing clothing that reflects their Indigenous identity, individuals can help to educate others about the diversity and resilience of Indigenous cultures

Challenges facing Indigenous fashion

• Despite the growth and success of contemporary Indigenous fashion, there are still significant challenges facing Indigenous designers and communities
• These challenges include issues of mass production, cultural appropriation, and the need for sustainable and ethical practices in the fashion industry

Mass production and fast fashion

• The fast fashion industry's focus on mass production and cheap labor can make it difficult for Indigenous designers to compete and maintain their traditional techniques and values
• Mass-produced clothing often lacks the quality, craftsmanship, and cultural significance of Indigenous-made garments
• The pressure to keep up with fast fashion trends can also lead to the appropriation and watering down of Indigenous designs and motifs

Protecting cultural intellectual property

• Indigenous communities often struggle to protect their cultural intellectual property, including traditional designs, techniques, and motifs, from being appropriated by non-Indigenous brands and designers
• There is a lack of legal frameworks and protections for Indigenous cultural heritage in the fashion industry, making it difficult for communities to control the use of their designs and receive proper compensation
• Some Indigenous communities are working to establish their own trademarks and copyrights to protect their cultural property and ensure that their designs are used respectfully and with permission

Sustainable and ethical practices

• Many Indigenous communities have long-standing traditions of sustainable and ethical fashion practices, using natural materials and techniques that prioritize environmental stewardship and social responsibility
• However, the mainstream fashion industry's focus on fast fashion and cheap production often conflicts with these values and can lead to the exploitation of Indigenous workers and resources
• Indigenous designers and brands are working to promote sustainable and ethical practices in the fashion industry, using eco-friendly materials and fair labor practices to create clothing that aligns with their cultural values

Future of Indigenous fashion

• As Indigenous fashion continues to gain recognition and popularity, there are opportunities for growth and empowerment for Indigenous designers and communities
• The future of Indigenous fashion involves preserving traditional knowledge, empowering Indigenous communities, and increasing the global presence and influence of Indigenous designers

Preserving traditional knowledge

• One of the key priorities for the future of Indigenous fashion is preserving the traditional knowledge, techniques, and designs that have been passed down for generations
• This involves supporting Indigenous elders and artisans in passing on their skills and knowledge to younger generations, ensuring the continuation of cultural traditions
• It also involves documenting and protecting Indigenous cultural heritage, including through the establishment of cultural centers, museums, and archives

Empowering Indigenous communities

• The growth of Indigenous fashion has the potential to empower Indigenous communities economically, socially, and culturally
• By supporting Indigenous-owned fashion brands and designers, consumers can help to create economic opportunities and jobs within Indigenous communities
• Indigenous fashion can also serve as a platform for raising awareness about Indigenous rights, cultures, and histories, helping to challenge stereotypes and promote greater understanding and respect

Growing global presence

• As Indigenous fashion gains more mainstream recognition and success, there are opportunities for Indigenous designers to increase their global presence and influence
• This includes participating in international fashion weeks, collaborating with global brands and retailers, and expanding their reach through e-commerce and social media
• By bringing Indigenous fashion to a global audience, designers can help to promote greater cultural understanding and appreciation, while also creating new economic opportunities for Indigenous communities
• The future of Indigenous fashion is bright, with the potential to celebrate and preserve cultural traditions while also innovating and adapting to the changing fashion landscape.