4.3 19th Century and Victorian Era Costume

The 19th century saw major shifts in fashion silhouettes and undergarments. From the Empire waistline to the crinoline and bustle, women's fashion evolved dramatically. Corsets remained essential, shaping the body to match changing ideals.

Men's fashion also transformed, with frock coats and morning coats becoming staples. Headwear played a crucial role, from women's decorative bonnets to men's top hats. These changes reflected broader societal shifts during the Victorian era.

Silhouettes and Undergarments

Empire Silhouette and Early 19th Century Undergarments

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• Empire silhouette characterized by high-waisted dresses with slim, columnar skirts
• Emerged during Napoleonic era, inspired by neoclassical ideals
• Corsets shortened to emphasize high waistline, often ending just below the bust
• Petticoats lightened to create flowing, draped effect in skirts
• Chemise worn as first layer against skin, made of lightweight cotton or linen

Mid-19th Century Voluminous Silhouettes

• Crinoline introduced in 1850s, creating dome-shaped skirt silhouette
• Consisted of steel hoops or whale bone sewn into petticoats
• Allowed skirts to reach extreme widths, up to 6 feet in diameter
• Hoop skirt developed as lighter alternative to crinoline
• Made of flexible steel bands suspended from waist by fabric tapes
• Enabled women to achieve fashionable bell shape without multiple heavy petticoats

Late 19th Century Silhouette Shifts

• Bustle emerged in 1870s, shifting fullness of skirt to back
• Created S-shaped silhouette when combined with corset
• Evolved from small pad to elaborate wire and horsehair structures
• Corset remained essential throughout 19th century
• Shaped torso into fashionable hourglass figure
• Constructed with whalebone, steel, or cording for rigidity
• Laced tightly at back, often reducing waist by several inches

Outerwear and Dresses

Early 19th Century Outerwear

• Pelisse served as fashionable outer garment for women
• Long coat-like garment, often fur-lined or trimmed
• Worn over dresses for warmth and style
• Spencer jacket popularized as short, fitted jacket for women
• Named after Lord Spencer, who allegedly burned his coattails
• Ended just below bust, complementing high-waisted Empire dresses

Men's Formal Wear Evolution

• Frock coat developed as standard daywear for gentlemen
• Knee-length coat with full skirt, typically in dark colors
• Evolved from earlier 18th-century styles
• Morning coat emerged as less formal alternative to frock coat
• Cutaway front with curved tails at back
• Became popular for daytime formal events and weddings

Late 19th Century Women's Fashion Innovations

• Shirtwaist introduced as separate blouse for women
• Inspired by men's shirts, often featuring high collars and full sleeves
• Paired with skirts, allowing for mix-and-match wardrobes
• Leg-of-mutton sleeves gained popularity in 1890s
• Characterized by extreme puffiness at shoulder, tapering to fitted forearm
• Created dramatic silhouette, emphasizing small waist

Headwear

Women's Headwear Trends

• Bonnet remained popular throughout 19th century
• Evolved from wide-brimmed styles to smaller, more decorative forms
• Often trimmed with ribbons, flowers, and feathers
• Materials included straw, silk, and velvet
• Poke bonnet featured long, protruding brim framing face
• Capote bonnet, a smaller, closer-fitting style, gained popularity mid-century

Men's Formal Headwear

• Top hat symbolized gentlemanly status and formal dress
• Tall, cylindrical shape with flat or slightly curved top
• Initially made of beaver fur felt, later silk plush
• Evolved from shorter styles to reach heights of up to 8 inches
• Collapsible opera hat (gibus) invented for ease of storage at events
• Bowler hat introduced as more practical alternative for everyday wear