5.1 Early 20th Century Styles (1900-1940s)

The early 20th century saw dramatic shifts in fashion. From the S-shaped silhouettes of the Edwardian era to the rebellious flapper styles of the 1920s, clothing reflected changing social norms and women's roles.

The 1930s and 40s brought a return to feminine shapes, influenced by Hollywood glamour and wartime practicality. These decades set the stage for the fashion revolution that would follow in the 1950s and beyond.

Edwardian & Gibson Girl Era

S-Shaped Silhouette and Fashion Ideals

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• Edwardian Era spanned from 1901 to 1910, characterized by opulent fashion and strict social etiquette
• Gibson Girl emerged as the feminine ideal, popularized by illustrator Charles Dana Gibson
• Women's fashion emphasized a mature, sophisticated look with full busts and rounded hips
• S-bend corset created the distinctive "pouter pigeon" silhouette by pushing the bust forward and hips back
• Clothing featured high collars, long skirts, and elaborate hats adorned with feathers and flowers

Evolving Styles and Social Changes

• Hobble skirt introduced in 1908 by designer Paul Poiret, restricting women's stride to a few inches
• Tailored suits for women gained popularity, reflecting growing involvement in sports and outdoor activities
• Men's fashion included frock coats, top hats, and well-groomed facial hair (handlebar mustaches)
• Hairstyles for women involved elaborate updos with false hair pieces and ornate combs
• Social changes included increased women's rights movements and shifting attitudes towards traditional gender roles

1920s Flapper & Art Deco

Flapper Style and Cultural Revolution

• Flapper style embodied the rebellious spirit of young women in the 1920s, rejecting traditional Victorian values
• Silhouette shifted to a boyish figure with dropped waistlines and shorter hemlines (knee-length)
• Women embraced bobbed haircuts, symbolizing newfound freedom and rejection of old-fashioned ideals
• Makeup became more acceptable, with dark eye makeup and bold lipstick gaining popularity
• Accessories included long strands of pearls, headbands, and costume jewelry

Art Deco Influence and Fashion Innovations

• Art Deco movement influenced fashion with geometric patterns and bold colors
• Cloche hat became a signature accessory, fitting closely to the head and often decorated with embroidery or jewels
• Bias cut technique, introduced by Madeleine Vionnet, created flowing, body-hugging garments
• Evening wear featured beaded and sequined dresses, often with fringe for dancing
• Men's fashion saw a shift towards more casual styles, including plus-fours (knee-length trousers) for sports

1930s-40s Styles

Depression Era and Hollywood Glamour

• Great Depression influenced fashion with a return to more conservative styles and practical clothing
• Hollywood glamour emerged as a form of escapism, with movie stars setting fashion trends
• Women's silhouettes became more feminine, with a focus on natural waistlines and longer hemlines
• Bias-cut evening gowns in satin and silk epitomized the sleek, elegant look of the era
• Accessories included gloves, fur stoles, and small hats worn at an angle

Wartime Fashion and Cultural Shifts

• World War II impacted fashion with rationing and fabric restrictions leading to simpler, utilitarian designs
• Zoot suit gained popularity among young men, featuring high-waisted trousers and long jackets
• Women's workwear adopted more masculine elements, including trousers and structured jackets
• Victory rolls hairstyle became popular, characterized by voluminous curls rolled away from the face
• Post-war fashion saw the emergence of Christian Dior's "New Look" in 1947, reintroducing ultra-feminine silhouettes with nipped waists and full skirts