6.5 Costumes and makeup

Costumes and makeup are essential elements in theater, bringing characters to life and transporting audiences to different worlds. From period pieces to modern dramas, these visual elements help establish time, place, and mood while supporting actors' performances.

Designers collaborate closely with directors, actors, and other departments to create cohesive looks that enhance storytelling. The process involves extensive research, character analysis, and creative problem-solving to bring the playwright's vision to the stage in a visually compelling way.

Types of costumes

• Costumes play a crucial role in establishing the time period, location, and overall aesthetic of a production
• The type of costume chosen can greatly impact the audience's perception and understanding of the characters and story
• Costumes also help actors to fully embody their roles and bring the playwright's vision to life

Period costumes

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• Designed to accurately represent a specific historical era or time period (Victorian, Renaissance, 1920s)
• Require extensive research to ensure authenticity in style, fabrics, and accessories
• Help to immerse the audience in the world of the play and provide context for the characters' actions and motivations
• Examples:
  • Elizabethan ruffs and doublets for Shakespeare's plays
  • Flapper dresses and suits for plays set in the 1920s

Modern costumes

• Reflect contemporary fashion and styles, often used in plays set in the present day
• Allow for more flexibility and interpretation in design, as they are not bound by historical accuracy
• Can be used to draw parallels between the characters' experiences and modern-day issues or themes
• Examples:
  • Business attire for a play about corporate politics
  • Casual, everyday clothing for a coming-of-age story

Fantasy costumes

• Created for plays set in imaginary or non-realistic worlds, such as fairy tales, science fiction, or mythological stories
• Require a high level of creativity and imagination to bring the playwright's vision to life
• Often incorporate elements of historical or modern fashion, but with exaggerated or fantastical features
• Examples:
  • Elaborate gowns and cloaks for a fairy tale adaptation
  • Futuristic jumpsuits and helmets for a science fiction play

Costume design process

• The costume design process is a collaborative effort between the costume designer, director, and other members of the creative team
• It involves a deep understanding of the script, characters, and overall vision for the production
• The process is iterative, with designs evolving through multiple stages of development and refinement

Script analysis for costumes

• The costume designer carefully reads and analyzes the script to identify key information about the characters, setting, and themes
• They note any specific references to clothing, accessories, or physical descriptions of the characters
• The designer also considers the overall tone and mood of the play, as well as any symbolism or motifs that could be represented through costumes

Character analysis for costumes

• The costume designer delves into the personalities, backgrounds, and relationships of the characters to inform their design choices
• They consider factors such as age, social status, occupation, and psychological state, as well as how the characters change and develop throughout the play
• The designer collaborates with the director and actors to ensure that the costumes support and enhance the characters' portrayals

Costume sketches and renderings

• The costume designer creates preliminary sketches to visualize their ideas and share them with the creative team
• These sketches are refined and developed into more detailed renderings, which show the costumes from multiple angles and include fabric swatches and accessories
• The renderings serve as a blueprint for the costume construction process and help to communicate the designer's vision to the director, actors, and production team

Costume fittings and alterations

• Actors attend fittings to ensure that their costumes fit properly and allow for comfortable movement on stage
• The costume designer and their team make any necessary alterations or adjustments to the costumes based on the actors' feedback and the director's notes
• Multiple fittings may be required throughout the rehearsal process to accommodate any changes in the actors' physicality or the demands of the production

Costume construction

• The costume construction process involves bringing the designer's renderings to life through a combination of sewing, crafting, and sourcing
• A skilled team of costume technicians, drapers, and stitchers work together to create the final costumes for the production
• The construction process requires a deep understanding of historical and contemporary garment construction techniques, as well as an eye for detail and problem-solving skills

Fabric selection for costumes

• The costume designer carefully selects fabrics that are appropriate for the time period, character, and overall aesthetic of the production
• They consider factors such as texture, weight, drape, and color, as well as the fabric's ability to withstand the demands of the performance (multiple wearings, quick changes, and movement)
• The designer sources fabrics from a variety of suppliers, including specialty fabric stores, vintage shops, and online retailers

Sewing techniques for costumes

• Costume technicians employ a wide range of sewing techniques to construct the garments, from basic seams and hems to more advanced methods like tailoring, draping, and pattern-making
• They must be skilled in both hand-sewing and machine-sewing, as well as in working with a variety of fabrics and materials (leather, lace, fur)
• Attention to detail is crucial in ensuring that the costumes are well-constructed, durable, and historically accurate (if applicable)

Dyeing and distressing costumes

• To achieve a specific color or aged appearance, costume technicians may dye fabrics using various techniques (immersion dyeing, hand-painting, tie-dyeing)
• Distressing involves artificially aging or wearing down costumes to make them look lived-in or to reflect the character's circumstances (dirt, tears, fraying)
• These techniques require a knowledge of color theory, fabric properties, and the safe handling of dyes and chemicals

Accessories and embellishments

• Costume accessories such as hats, shoes, jewelry, and gloves are carefully selected or crafted to complement the overall design
• Embellishments like embroidery, beading, and appliqué can add texture, detail, and visual interest to the costumes
• The costume designer and their team must ensure that all accessories and embellishments are period-appropriate (if applicable) and suit the characters' personalities and circumstances

Costume organization

• Effective costume organization is essential for the smooth running of a production, especially for large-scale shows with multiple characters and quick changes
• A well-organized costume department ensures that costumes are easily accessible, properly maintained, and ready for each performance
• Good communication and collaboration between the costume designer, wardrobe supervisor, and dressers are key to a successful costume operation

Costume plots and breakdowns

• A costume plot is a comprehensive list of all the costumes needed for each character throughout the play, including any changes or variations
• The plot is broken down into scenes or acts, with detailed descriptions of each costume, accessory, and hairstyle
• The costume breakdown helps the wardrobe team to plan and organize the costumes for each performance, ensuring that everything is ready and in the correct order

Costume labeling and storage

• Each costume piece is labeled with the character's name, scene or act number, and any other relevant information (quick change, special handling)
• Costumes are stored on labeled racks or in designated areas backstage, organized by character and scene for easy access during the show
• Proper storage helps to prevent damage and maintain the costumes' appearance throughout the run of the production

Quick changes and costume maintenance

• Quick changes involve actors rapidly changing costumes between scenes or even on stage, often with the assistance of dressers
• The wardrobe team choreographs and rehearses quick changes to ensure that they are executed smoothly and efficiently
• Regular costume maintenance, such as cleaning, pressing, and minor repairs, is performed between shows to keep the costumes in top condition
• More extensive repairs or alterations may be necessary during the run of the show, requiring the skills of the costume construction team

Makeup design

• Makeup design is an essential aspect of character development and visual storytelling in theatre
• A well-designed makeup look can help to convey a character's age, health, emotional state, and even supernatural or fantastical qualities
• The makeup designer works closely with the director, costume designer, and actors to create cohesive and compelling looks that support the overall vision of the production

Character analysis for makeup

• Similar to costume design, the makeup designer begins by analyzing the script and characters to understand their personalities, backgrounds, and journeys throughout the play
• They consider factors such as age, health, occupation, and social status, as well as any specific references to the characters' appearances in the script
• The designer collaborates with the director and actors to develop makeup looks that enhance and support the characters' portrayals

Makeup application techniques

• The makeup designer and their team employ a variety of techniques to create the desired effects, from basic corrective makeup to more advanced methods like contouring, highlighting, and prosthetics
• They must be skilled in working with different skin tones, textures, and types, as well as in creating looks that are suitable for the stage (visible under bright lights and from a distance)
• The designer also considers the practical demands of the production, such as quick changes and the need for makeup to last through multiple performances

Special effects makeup

• For productions that require non-realistic or fantastical characters, the makeup designer may create special effects makeup looks using prosthetics, airbrush techniques, and other advanced methods
• Examples include:
  • Wounds, scars, and bruises for fight scenes or battle sequences
  • Aging effects for characters who span multiple decades
  • Creature or monster makeup for fantasy or horror plays

Makeup for different skin tones

• The makeup designer must be knowledgeable about working with a wide range of skin tones and undertones to create looks that are flattering and appropriate for each actor
• They select foundation shades, pigments, and products that complement the actors' natural skin tones and avoid a "one-size-fits-all" approach
• The designer also considers the lighting design and how it may affect the appearance of the makeup on different skin tones

Makeup application

• The makeup application process involves a series of steps to create a polished and long-lasting look that enhances the actors' features and supports their character portrayals
• A skilled makeup team, led by the makeup designer, works efficiently and collaboratively to prepare the actors for each performance
• Attention to detail, a steady hand, and an understanding of color theory and facial anatomy are essential skills for success in makeup application

Base makeup and foundation

• The first step in the makeup application process is to create a smooth, even base using foundation, concealer, and powder
• The makeup artist selects products that match the actors' skin tones and types, taking into account factors such as skin sensitivity, allergies, and the need for long-lasting wear
• Proper base application helps to create a blank canvas for the rest of the makeup look and ensures that the makeup looks natural and seamless under stage lighting

Highlighting and contouring

• Highlighting and contouring techniques are used to enhance or alter the actors' facial features, creating the illusion of depth, dimension, and structure
• The makeup artist applies lighter shades to areas that naturally catch the light (cheekbones, brow bone, bridge of the nose) and darker shades to areas that recede (hollows of the cheeks, sides of the nose, jawline)
• These techniques can be used to age or de-age a character, emphasize certain facial expressions, or create a more sculpted or chiseled appearance

Age makeup and prosthetics

• For characters who are significantly older or younger than the actors portraying them, the makeup team may use a combination of techniques to create a convincing age makeup look
• This can involve applying prosthetic pieces (latex or silicone appliances) to create wrinkles, jowls, or age spots, as well as using makeup to simulate the appearance of thinning hair, age-related discoloration, and other signs of aging
• Prosthetics require specialized skills in application, blending, and removal to ensure a seamless and comfortable fit for the actor

Makeup removal and skin care

• After each performance, the makeup team carefully removes the actors' makeup using gentle, skin-friendly products and techniques
• They ensure that all traces of makeup, adhesives, and prosthetics are removed to prevent skin irritation, clogged pores, and other potential issues
• The team may also provide the actors with skin care advice and products to help maintain the health and integrity of their skin throughout the run of the production

Collaboration with other departments

• Effective collaboration between the costume and makeup departments and other areas of production is essential for creating a cohesive and compelling visual world on stage
• Regular communication, shared vision, and a willingness to adapt and problem-solve are key to successful interdepartmental collaboration
• By working together, the various departments can create a seamless and immersive experience for the audience that supports the playwright's intentions and enhances the overall impact of the production

Costumes and lighting design

• The costume designer works closely with the lighting designer to ensure that the costumes look their best under the specific lighting conditions of the production
• They consider factors such as color temperature, intensity, and angle of the light, as well as how different fabrics and textures react to light
• The designers may collaborate on creating special effects, such as the appearance of blood, sweat, or other physical changes that are enhanced by lighting

Makeup and hair design

• The makeup designer and hair designer (or wig master) work together to create cohesive and period-appropriate looks for each character
• They ensure that the makeup and hairstyles complement each other and suit the characters' personalities, circumstances, and the overall aesthetic of the production
• The designers may also collaborate on creating special effects, such as bald caps, facial hair, or unusual hair colors and textures

Costumes and set design

• The costume designer and set designer collaborate to create a unified visual world that reflects the time period, location, and atmosphere of the play
• They consider how the costumes will look against the backdrop of the set, and how the characters' movements and interactions with the set will affect their clothing
• In some cases, the costume designer may incorporate elements of the set into the costumes themselves, such as using similar colors, patterns, or textures to create a sense of continuity and cohesion

Historical and cultural considerations

• When designing costumes and makeup for a production, it is essential to consider the historical and cultural context of the play, as well as the potential impact of design choices on the audience and the wider community
• Designers have a responsibility to approach their work with sensitivity, respect, and a commitment to accuracy and authenticity
• By engaging in thorough research, consultation, and self-reflection, designers can create costumes and makeup that celebrate diversity, promote inclusion, and contribute to a more equitable and representative theatre industry

Research for historical accuracy

• For productions set in specific historical periods or locations, costume and makeup designers must conduct extensive research to ensure that their designs are accurate and authentic
• This research may involve consulting primary sources (photographs, paintings, historical documents), secondary sources (books, articles, expert opinions), and cultural resources (museums, archives, community organizations)
• Designers must also be aware of the limitations and biases of their research materials, and seek out diverse perspectives and voices to inform their work

Cultural appropriation vs appreciation

• When designing costumes and makeup that represent cultures or communities other than their own, designers must be mindful of the fine line between cultural appreciation and appropriation
• Cultural appropriation involves the unauthorized or disrespectful use of elements from a marginalized or oppressed culture by members of a dominant or privileged group
• To avoid cultural appropriation, designers should:
  • Engage in respectful consultation and collaboration with members of the represented community
  • Seek permission and give credit for the use of specific cultural elements or designs
  • Avoid stereotyping, exoticism, or misrepresentation of the culture or community
  • Consider the potential impact of their design choices on the represented community and the audience

Diversity and inclusion in costuming

• Costume and makeup designers have a responsibility to promote diversity and inclusion in their work, both on and off stage
• This involves creating opportunities for underrepresented groups (BIPOC, LGBTQ+, disabled actors) to see themselves reflected in the characters and stories being told
• Designers should:
  • Cast a wide net when researching and sourcing materials, seeking out diverse suppliers, artisans, and collaborators
  • Be mindful of the physical and cultural diversity of the actors they are designing for, and create costumes and makeup that celebrate and accommodate different body types, skin tones, and abilities
  • Advocate for diversity and inclusion in the wider theatre industry, using their platform and influence to promote equity, access, and representation