8.1 Costume history and research

Costume history and research form the backbone of theatrical costume design. Understanding the evolution of clothing styles, materials, and cultural contexts allows designers to create authentic and meaningful costumes for the stage.

From ancient Greek tunics to Victorian corsets, costume design has reflected societal changes and artistic movements. Researching historical garments through primary and secondary sources, analyzing their components, and adapting them for modern productions are essential skills for costume designers.

Origins of costume design

• Costume design has been an integral part of theater production since ancient times, with performers wearing specific attire to convey character and enhance storytelling
• The origins of costume design can be traced back to religious ceremonies and rituals, where participants wore symbolic clothing to represent deities or spiritual concepts
• As theater evolved into a formal art form, costume design became more sophisticated and intentional, reflecting the themes and aesthetics of the production

Costume design through the ages

Ancient Greek and Roman costumes

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• Ancient Greek costumes were simple and flowing, consisting of chitons (tunics) and himations (cloaks) made from lightweight fabrics like linen and wool
• Masks were a crucial element of Greek theater, with exaggerated features and expressions used to convey character and emotion from a distance
• Roman costumes were more elaborate and ornate, featuring intricate embroidery, jewels, and metallic accents to signify wealth and status
• Togas were a staple of Roman dress, with variations in style and draping used to indicate social class and occasion

Medieval and Renaissance costumes

• Medieval costumes were heavily influenced by the Catholic Church, with modest, covered styles and limited color palettes (mainly earth tones and jewel tones)
• Sumptuary laws regulated clothing based on social hierarchy, with certain fabrics and embellishments reserved for the nobility
• Renaissance costumes reflected a renewed interest in classical aesthetics, with more fitted silhouettes, rich fabrics (velvet, silk, brocade), and elaborate ornamentation (pearls, gold thread, lace)
• Commedia dell'arte, a popular form of improvisational theater, featured stock characters with distinctive costumes (Harlequin's diamond-patterned suit, Pantalone's red breeches)

Elizabethan and Jacobean costumes

• Elizabethan costumes were characterized by stiff, structured silhouettes, with corsets, farthingales (hooped skirts), and ruffs (starched collars) creating an exaggerated hourglass shape
• Rich fabrics like silk, velvet, and brocade were favored, with intricate embroidery, jewels, and pearls used for decoration
• Jacobean costumes continued the Elizabethan aesthetic, with a shift towards softer, more relaxed silhouettes and a greater emphasis on comfort and mobility
• Men's costumes featured doublets (fitted jackets), breeches, and hose, often in contrasting colors and fabrics for a visually striking effect

Restoration and Georgian costumes

• Restoration costumes reflected a return to elegance and refinement after the austerity of the Puritan era, with flowing silks, lace, and embroidery in soft, pastel colors
• Panniers (side hoops) and mantuas (loose gowns) created a wide, rectangular silhouette for women, while men wore long, fitted coats and knee breeches
• Georgian costumes were influenced by the Rococo aesthetic, with intricate floral patterns, delicate pastel colors, and asymmetrical designs
• Men's costumes featured more fitted, tailored styles, with frock coats, waistcoats, and breeches in rich fabrics like velvet and brocade

Victorian and Edwardian costumes

• Victorian costumes were characterized by a return to modesty and restraint, with high necklines, long sleeves, and full skirts in dark, somber colors
• Corsets and crinolines (hooped petticoats) created an exaggerated hourglass silhouette, with an emphasis on a small waist and full hips
• Edwardian costumes reflected a shift towards a more natural, flowing silhouette, with high waists, long, straight skirts, and lighter, airier fabrics like chiffon and lace
• Men's costumes featured tailored suits, with morning coats, frock coats, and tuxedos for formal occasions, and more casual styles like blazers and flannels for daytime wear

20th century costumes

• 20th century costumes reflected rapid social and cultural changes, with fashion evolving from the restrictive styles of the early 1900s to the more relaxed, experimental designs of the latter decades
• The 1920s saw a shift towards shorter hemlines, looser silhouettes, and more androgynous styles, with the rise of the "flapper" aesthetic
• The 1930s and 1940s featured more fitted, tailored styles, with a focus on practicality and functionality during the war years
• The 1950s saw a return to femininity and glamour, with full skirts, fitted bodices, and an emphasis on the hourglass silhouette
• The 1960s and 1970s were marked by a rejection of traditional fashion norms, with the rise of counterculture styles like the hippie and disco aesthetics
• The 1980s and 1990s saw a proliferation of diverse fashion trends, from the power dressing of the 80s to the grunge and minimalism of the 90s

Researching historical costumes

Primary vs secondary sources

• Primary sources are original materials from the time period being studied, such as garments, accessories, photographs, and illustrations
• Secondary sources are later interpretations or analyses of historical costumes, such as books, articles, and documentaries
• Primary sources offer the most authentic and accurate information, but can be rare, fragile, and difficult to access
• Secondary sources provide valuable context and expert insights, but may be subject to bias or inaccuracies

Museums and collections

• Museums and collections are invaluable resources for costume research, offering access to original garments, accessories, and related artifacts
• Notable collections include the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute (New York), the Victoria and Albert Museum (London), and the Kyoto Costume Institute (Japan)
• Many museums offer online databases and virtual exhibitions, allowing researchers to access their collections remotely
• Visiting museums in person allows for close examination of construction techniques, materials, and embellishments

Paintings and illustrations

• Paintings and illustrations provide visual records of historical clothing styles, offering insights into silhouette, color, pattern, and accessorization
• Notable artists known for their detailed depictions of fashion include Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun, Edgar Degas, and John Singer Sargent
• Fashion plates and magazine illustrations offer a wealth of information about popular styles and trends from the 18th century onward
• Caution must be exercised when using artistic sources, as they may be idealized or exaggerated for aesthetic effect

Photographs and film

• Photographs and film offer realistic, accurate depictions of historical clothing as it was actually worn
• The advent of photography in the mid-19th century revolutionized costume research, providing a more objective record of fashion history
• Early 20th century fashion photographers like Cecil Beaton and Richard Avedon captured iconic images of clothing and style
• Films from the early 20th century onwards provide a wealth of information about fashion trends and how garments moved and behaved on the body

Historical patterns and construction techniques

• Historical patterns and construction techniques offer insights into how garments were made and worn in different time periods
• Surviving garments can be studied to understand cutting, draping, and sewing methods, as well as the use of different fabrics and trimmings
• Pattern books and sewing manuals from the 19th and early 20th centuries provide detailed instructions and illustrations for creating historical styles
• Hands-on experimentation with historical construction techniques can yield valuable insights into the fit, movement, and behavior of garments on the body

Analyzing historical costumes

Silhouette and proportion

• Silhouette refers to the overall shape and outline of a garment, which can vary greatly between different time periods and styles
• Proportion refers to the relationship between different parts of the body and how they are accentuated or de-emphasized by clothing
• Analyzing silhouette and proportion can reveal insights into the fashionable ideal of a particular time period, as well as the social and cultural values it reflects
• Changes in silhouette and proportion over time can be traced to shifts in technology, politics, and cultural attitudes

Fabric and texture

• Fabric choice and texture play a crucial role in the appearance and behavior of historical costumes
• Different fabrics have different properties in terms of drape, weight, and movement, which can affect the overall silhouette and feel of a garment
• Fabric choice can also reflect social status and occasion, with more expensive and luxurious materials reserved for the upper classes and formal events
• Texture can add visual interest and depth to a costume, with techniques like embroidery, quilting, and pleating used to create different surface effects

Color and pattern

• Color and pattern are important elements of historical costume design, with different shades and motifs used to convey character, status, and cultural identity
• Color choice can reflect social and cultural meanings, with certain hues associated with mourning, celebration, or political affiliation
• Patterns can range from simple stripes and checks to intricate floral and geometric designs, with different motifs favored in different time periods and regions
• The use of color and pattern can also be influenced by technological developments, such as the invention of synthetic dyes in the 19th century

Accessories and embellishments

• Accessories and embellishments are the finishing touches that complete a historical costume, adding detail, texture, and visual interest
• Common accessories include hats, gloves, shoes, and jewelry, which can vary greatly in style and materials between different time periods and social classes
• Embellishments like lace, fringe, and beading can be used to add texture and dimension to a garment, as well as to signify wealth and status
• The choice and placement of accessories and embellishments can also reflect cultural and social norms, such as the use of fans and parasols for modesty and sun protection

Social and cultural context

• Historical costumes must be analyzed within their social and cultural context to be fully understood and appreciated
• Clothing choices can reflect social hierarchies, gender roles, and moral values, with different styles and materials deemed appropriate for different classes and occasions
• Cultural influences like religion, politics, and art can also shape fashion trends and ideals, with clothing used as a means of expressing identity and belonging
• Understanding the social and cultural context of historical costumes can help designers create more authentic and meaningful reproductions for the stage

Adapting historical costumes for the stage

Artistic interpretation vs historical accuracy

• When adapting historical costumes for the stage, designers must strike a balance between artistic interpretation and historical accuracy
• Artistic interpretation allows for creative license and stylization, with costumes used to convey character, theme, and mood rather than strict realism
• Historical accuracy involves faithfully reproducing the silhouette, materials, and details of a particular time period, with attention to authenticity and detail
• The choice between artistic interpretation and historical accuracy will depend on the goals and aesthetics of the production, as well as the expectations of the audience

Practical considerations for movement and quick changes

• Stage costumes must be designed with the practical needs of actors and performers in mind, allowing for ease of movement and quick changes between scenes
• Garments may need to be modified or simplified to accommodate the physical demands of the performance, such as dancing, fighting, or acrobatics
• Quick change techniques like velcro, snaps, and elastics can be used to facilitate rapid costume changes, without compromising the overall look and feel of the garment
• Designers must also consider the durability and washability of costumes, as they will need to withstand multiple performances and cleanings over the course of a production run

Budget and resource limitations

• Budget and resource limitations can pose challenges for historical costume design, requiring creativity and resourcefulness on the part of the designer
• Designers may need to prioritize certain elements of the costume, such as silhouette and color, while simplifying or eliminating others, like intricate embellishments or expensive fabrics
• Thrifting, repurposing, and rental options can be used to source affordable materials and garments, which can then be modified or embellished to suit the needs of the production
• Collaboration with other departments, such as props and scenery, can also help maximize resources and create a cohesive visual world on stage

Collaborating with the director and design team

• Successful historical costume design requires close collaboration with the director and other members of the design team, including set, lighting, and sound designers
• The director's vision and interpretation of the script will guide the overall aesthetic and tone of the production, which the costume designer must work to support and enhance
• Regular meetings and communication with the design team can help ensure that all elements of the production are working together harmoniously, with a shared understanding of the goals and challenges of the project
• Costume designers may need to adapt or modify their designs based on feedback and input from the director and other collaborators, while still maintaining their artistic vision and integrity

Documenting and presenting costume research

Creating a research bible

• A research bible is a comprehensive document that compiles all of the historical research, visual references, and design ideas for a costume project
• It typically includes images, sketches, fabric swatches, and written notes on the silhouette, color, texture, and accessories of each character or time period
• The research bible serves as a centralized resource for the designer and production team, ensuring that everyone is working from the same understanding of the costume concept
• It can also be used to communicate and justify design choices to directors, actors, and other stakeholders in the production process

Mood boards and collages

• Mood boards and collages are visual tools used to communicate the overall aesthetic and feel of a costume design
• They typically include images, colors, and textures that evoke the desired mood and atmosphere of the production, as well as key visual references for each character or scene
• Mood boards can be created digitally or physically, using a variety of materials like photographs, fabric swatches, and found objects
• They are often used in the early stages of the design process to help establish a shared vision and direction for the costumes

Sketches and renderings

• Sketches and renderings are detailed drawings that illustrate the final costume designs for each character or ensemble
• They typically show the garment from multiple angles, with attention to silhouette, proportion, color, and detail
• Sketches may be done by hand or digitally, using a variety of media like pencil, watercolor, or computer software
• Renderings are often accompanied by fabric swatches and written descriptions of the materials, construction, and accessories used in each costume
• They serve as the primary visual reference for the costume shop and production team, guiding the construction and realization of the final garments

Swatches and samples

• Swatches and samples are physical examples of the fabrics, trims, and embellishments used in each costume
• They help communicate the texture, weight, and behavior of the materials, as well as how they will interact with light and movement on stage
• Swatches are typically attached to the costume renderings or presented alongside them in a swatch book or binder
• Samples may include mock-ups or prototypes of certain costume elements, like a corset or headdress, to test construction techniques and fit
• They can also be used to experiment with different dyeing, painting, or distressing techniques to achieve the desired look and feel of the costumes

Presenting to the production team

• Presenting costume research and designs to the production team is a crucial step in the collaborative process of bringing a show to life
• Presentations typically involve a combination of visual aids, like mood boards, sketches, and swatches, as well as verbal explanations and justifications of the design choices
• The designer must be prepared to answer questions and receive feedback from the director, actors, and other members of the production team
• Effective communication skills and a willingness to adapt and compromise are essential for successful collaboration and problem-solving
• The goal of the presentation is to ensure that everyone is aligned on the vision and execution of the costumes, and to identify any potential challenges or concerns early in the process