8.2 Fabric selection and draping

Fabric selection and draping are crucial elements in costume design for theater production. These techniques allow designers to create visually striking and functional costumes that enhance characters and bring stories to life on stage.

Understanding fabric types, properties, and manipulation techniques empowers designers to make informed choices. Draping on dress forms enables the creation of three-dimensional garments that fit actors perfectly and support their performances.

Types of fabric

• Fabric selection is a crucial aspect of costume design in theater production
• The type of fabric chosen can greatly impact the overall look, feel, and functionality of a costume
• Understanding the differences between various fabric types is essential for creating effective and appropriate costumes

Natural vs synthetic

Top images from around the web for Natural vs synthetic

• 

  Frontiers | Natural Fibers as Sustainable and Renewable Resource for Development of Eco-Friendly ... View original

  Is this image relevant?

• 

  Textile Science Engineering Journal | Fashion Technology View original

  Is this image relevant?

• 

  Unit - Chemistry of Textiles: Synthetic Fibres View original

  Is this image relevant?

• 

  Frontiers | Natural Fibers as Sustainable and Renewable Resource for Development of Eco-Friendly ... View original

  Is this image relevant?

• 

  Textile Science Engineering Journal | Fashion Technology View original

  Is this image relevant?

1 of 3

Top images from around the web for Natural vs synthetic

• 

  Frontiers | Natural Fibers as Sustainable and Renewable Resource for Development of Eco-Friendly ... View original

  Is this image relevant?

• 

  Textile Science Engineering Journal | Fashion Technology View original

  Is this image relevant?

• 

  Unit - Chemistry of Textiles: Synthetic Fibres View original

  Is this image relevant?

• 

  Frontiers | Natural Fibers as Sustainable and Renewable Resource for Development of Eco-Friendly ... View original

  Is this image relevant?

• 

  Textile Science Engineering Journal | Fashion Technology View original

  Is this image relevant?

1 of 3

• Natural fabrics are derived from plant or animal sources (cotton, wool, silk)
  • Often have a more luxurious feel and drape
  • May be more breathable and comfortable to wear
  • Can be more expensive and delicate to care for
• Synthetic fabrics are man-made from chemical processes (polyester, nylon, acrylic)
  • Generally more durable and easier to care for
  • Can have a wider range of colors, textures, and patterns
  • May be less breathable and comfortable than natural fabrics

Woven vs knit

• Woven fabrics are created by interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles (denim, linen, taffeta)
  • Tend to have a more structured and stable shape
  • May have less stretch and drape than knit fabrics
  • Can fray at the edges when cut
• Knit fabrics are created by interlocking loops of yarn (jersey, sweater knits, ribbing)
  • Often have more stretch and flexibility than woven fabrics
  • Can conform to the body's shape more easily
  • Edges do not fray when cut

Stretch vs non-stretch

• Stretch fabrics contain elastic fibers that allow them to expand and recover (spandex, lycra, elastane)
  • Provide greater ease of movement for the actor
  • Can create a more fitted, streamlined silhouette
  • May require special sewing techniques and needles
• Non-stretch fabrics have little to no give (cotton, linen, wool)
  • Maintain their shape and structure more easily
  • May require more ease or a looser fit for comfort and movement
  • Can be easier to sew and manipulate

Fabric properties

• Understanding the inherent properties of different fabrics is crucial for selecting the appropriate material for a costume
• Fabric properties can affect how a costume looks, moves, and wears over time
• Considering factors such as weight, texture, and durability can help ensure a successful costume design

Weight and drape

• Fabric weight refers to the thickness and density of the material (lightweight chiffon vs heavy wool coating)
  • Lighter fabrics often have more fluid drape and movement
  • Heavier fabrics can create more structure and volume
  • Weight can affect the overall silhouette and proportions of a costume
• Drape describes how a fabric falls and flows on the body (soft, clingy jersey vs crisp, stiff taffeta)
  • Fabrics with more drape can create elegant, flowing lines
  • Fabrics with less drape can hold their shape and create more sculpted forms
  • Drape can be influenced by factors such as fiber content, weave, and finish

Texture and sheen

• Texture refers to the surface quality of a fabric (smooth, rough, fuzzy, bumpy)
  • Can add visual interest and depth to a costume
  • Can convey character traits or social status (rough homespun vs luxurious velvet)
  • May affect how light interacts with the fabric on stage
• Sheen describes the degree of light reflection on a fabric's surface (matte, satin, glossy)
  • Can create a sense of formality, elegance, or glamour
  • May be desirable for certain historical periods or character types
  • Can be challenging to work with under stage lighting

Durability and care

• Durability refers to a fabric's ability to withstand wear, tear, and cleaning over time
  • Important consideration for costumes that will be worn repeatedly in multiple performances
  • Fabrics with higher durability (polyester, nylon) may be preferred for high-stress areas or action scenes
  • Natural fibers like cotton and wool can also be durable with proper care
• Care requirements should be taken into account when selecting fabrics
  • Some fabrics may require dry cleaning, hand washing, or special handling
  • Delicate fabrics (silk, lace) may need to be lined or reinforced for added protection
  • Considering care needs can help minimize maintenance and extend the life of a costume

Fabric and character

• Fabric choice plays a significant role in defining and expressing a character's personality, background, and role in the story
• Costumes can help actors embody their characters more fully and communicate essential information to the audience
• Careful selection of fabrics can enhance the overall impact and effectiveness of a costume design

Communicating personality

• Fabric can convey a character's age, social status, occupation, and temperament
  • Soft, flowing fabrics (chiffon, silk) can suggest youth, femininity, or vulnerability
  • Sturdy, practical fabrics (denim, canvas) can imply a working-class background or tough exterior
  • Luxurious, high-quality fabrics (velvet, brocade) can signify wealth, power, or sophistication
• Texture and pattern can also express personality traits
  • Rough, nubby textures (tweed, burlap) can suggest a rugged, outdoorsy nature
  • Smooth, sleek fabrics (satin, leather) can convey confidence, sensuality, or elegance
  • Bold, graphic patterns (stripes, polka dots) can indicate a lively, extroverted personality

Reflecting time period

• Fabric selection can help establish the historical context and era of a production
  • Researching fabrics commonly used in a specific time period is essential for creating authentic costumes
  • Fiber content, weave structure, and print designs can all be period-specific
  • Using historically accurate fabrics can help transport the audience to a different time and place
• Certain fabrics are strongly associated with particular eras (crinolines for the 1850s, polyester for the 1970s)
  • These iconic fabrics can serve as visual shorthand for a time period
  • Mixing period-appropriate fabrics with modern ones can create an updated or stylized look

Enhancing movement

• Fabric choice can greatly impact an actor's ability to move and perform on stage
  • Stretchy, flexible fabrics (jersey, spandex) allow for greater freedom of movement in active scenes
  • Lightweight, flowing fabrics (chiffon, organza) can create beautiful, dynamic effects when an actor moves
  • Stiffer, more structured fabrics (brocade, taffeta) can restrict movement but create a desired silhouette
• Considering the demands of a specific role or scene can guide fabric selection
  • A dancer may require fabrics with excellent stretch and recovery
  • A period piece may call for fabrics that create a particular shape or volume
  • An action-heavy play may demand durable, easy-care fabrics that can withstand vigorous movement

Draping techniques

• Draping is the process of manipulating fabric directly on a dress form to create a desired shape or design
• It allows the costume designer to experiment with different silhouettes, proportions, and details in three dimensions
• Mastering basic draping techniques is essential for translating a two-dimensional sketch into a wearable garment

Grain line and bias

• Grain line refers to the direction of the warp and weft threads in a woven fabric
  • Draping on the straight grain (parallel to the selvage) creates a more stable, structured shape
  • Draping on the cross grain (perpendicular to the selvage) can create a softer, more fluid drape
  • Paying attention to grain line can affect the hang and fit of a garment
• Bias refers to the diagonal direction across the fabric's grain
  • Draping on the bias allows the fabric to stretch and mold to the body's curves
  • Bias-cut garments often have a slinky, form-fitting silhouette
  • Bias draping requires careful handling to prevent distortion and stretching

Pinning and marking

• Pinning is the process of temporarily securing the fabric to the dress form while draping
  • Pins should be placed perpendicular to the seam line for easy removal
  • Using fine, sharp pins can minimize damage to delicate fabrics
  • Pinning strategically can help control excess fabric and create a cleaner drape
• Marking involves transferring key points, lines, and shapes from the draped fabric to paper or muslin
  • Tracing wheel and transfer paper can be used to mark seam lines, darts, and other details
  • Hand basting or thread tracing can also be used to mark important lines
  • Accurate marking is crucial for creating a precise pattern from the drape

Pleating and gathering

• Pleating involves folding and securing fabric to create a decorative or functional effect
  • Knife pleats, box pleats, and accordion pleats are common types used in draping
  • Pleats can add volume, texture, or interest to a garment
  • Pleating requires careful planning and measuring to ensure even distribution and symmetry
• Gathering is a technique used to create fullness and volume in a garment
  • Fabric is evenly distributed along a seam line and secured with stitching or elastic
  • Gathering can be used to create ruffles, puffs, or billowing effects
  • The amount of gathering can be adjusted to control the level of fullness desired

Draping on the form

• Draping on a dress form allows the costume designer to create and refine the silhouette and fit of a garment in three dimensions
• It involves manipulating the fabric directly on the form to achieve the desired shape and proportions
• Draping on the form is an iterative process that requires patience, precision, and attention to detail

Preparing the dress form

• Selecting the appropriate size and shape of dress form is essential for accurate draping
  • Forms come in standard sizes and can be adjusted to match an actor's measurements
  • Padding or shaping the form may be necessary to mimic the actor's unique body contours
  • A well-prepared form can help ensure a better fit and minimize alterations later
• Marking key reference points on the form can aid in draping
  • Center front, center back, and side seams can be marked with tape or pins
  • Bust, waist, and hip levels can be indicated for accurate proportions
  • Marking the form helps maintain symmetry and alignment while draping

Creating basic shapes

• Draping often begins with creating basic shapes or foundations that can be refined and detailed
  • A simple bodice, skirt, or sleeve can serve as a starting point for more complex designs
  • Blocking out the general silhouette and proportions helps establish the overall look
  • Basic shapes can be draped using muslin or a similar inexpensive fabric
• Draping basic shapes involves manipulating the fabric to create darts, seams, and curves
  • Darts are used to shape the fabric to the body's contours and create a smooth fit
  • Seams can be used to join fabric pieces and define the garment's structure
  • Curves and angles can be created by manipulating the fabric's drape and pinning strategically

Refining the silhouette

• Once the basic shapes are established, the drape can be refined to achieve the desired silhouette
  • Adding fullness, removing excess fabric, or adjusting proportions can help create the intended look
  • Pleats, gathers, or tucks can be incorporated to add volume or interest
  • Necklines, armholes, and hemlines can be shaped and finished for a polished appearance
• Refining the drape may involve multiple iterations and fittings
  • Pinning, marking, and adjusting the fabric on the form helps perfect the silhouette
  • Trying the draped garment on the actor can reveal areas that need further refinement
  • Making small, incremental changes can lead to a more successful final drape

Translating drape to pattern

• Once the drape is finalized on the dress form, it must be translated into a flat pattern for cutting and construction
• Creating an accurate pattern from the drape ensures that the final garment will match the original design and fit
• Translating the drape to a pattern requires precision, patience, and attention to detail

Truing the lines

• Truing involves refining and straightening the seam lines, darts, and edges of the draped fabric
  • Pinned or marked lines on the drape may be uneven or distorted
  • Using a straight edge, French curve, or pattern ruler can help create smooth, accurate lines
  • Trued lines will result in a more professional-looking pattern and garment
• Truing also involves ensuring that corresponding seams and edges match in length
  • Mismatched seams can cause fit issues and make construction more difficult
  • Measuring and adjusting the lines as needed helps create a balanced, symmetrical pattern

Adding seam allowances

• Seam allowances must be added to the trued pattern pieces to account for garment construction
  • The width of the seam allowance depends on the fabric type, garment style, and construction methods used
  • Standard seam allowances range from 1/4" to 5/8" (6mm to 1.5cm)
  • Wider seam allowances may be used for heavier fabrics or more complex seaming
• Seam allowances are typically added using a pattern ruler or by measuring and marking manually
  • Consistency in seam allowance width is important for accurate construction
  • Notches, dots, or other markings can be added to the seam allowance to aid in garment assembly

Creating the mock-up

• A mock-up, or toile, is a preliminary version of the garment made from inexpensive fabric
  • Mock-ups are used to test the fit, proportions, and design details of the pattern
  • They allow for adjustments and refinements to be made before cutting into the final fabric
  • Creating a mock-up can save time and resources in the long run
• To create a mock-up, the pattern pieces are cut from muslin or a similar fabric and sewn together
  • The mock-up is typically fitted on the actor to assess the fit and identify any issues
  • Alterations can be made directly on the mock-up and then transferred back to the paper pattern
  • Multiple mock-ups may be necessary to perfect the fit and design

Fitting the drape

• Fitting the drape involves evaluating and refining the fit of the draped garment on the actor's body
• It is an essential step in ensuring that the final costume is comfortable, flattering, and functional
• Fitting the drape requires collaboration between the costume designer, draper, and actor

Assessing the fit

• The drape should be assessed on the actor's body for overall fit, proportion, and ease
  • Evaluating the fit in motion and at rest can reveal different issues
  • Pinning or marking areas that need adjustment can help guide the fitting process
  • Taking photos or videos of the fitting can provide a useful reference for later alterations
• Common fit issues to look for include:
  • Pulling, straining, or wrinkling in the fabric
  • Gaping or excess fabric at the neckline, armholes, or waist
  • Uneven hemlines or sleeve lengths
  • Restricted movement or discomfort for the actor

Making adjustments

• Adjustments to the drape can be made directly on the actor or on the dress form
  • Pinning, marking, or basting can be used to modify the fit temporarily
  • Letting out or taking in seams can help refine the fit and eliminate excess fabric
  • Reshaping darts, pleats, or other design details can improve the overall drape and silhouette
• Adjustments should be made incrementally to avoid over-correcting or distorting the drape
  • Making small, gradual changes allows for a more controlled and precise fitting process
  • Regularly assessing the fit on the actor ensures that adjustments are effective and balanced

Finalizing the design

• Once the fit and drape are satisfactory, the design can be finalized
  • Any remaining design details, such as closures, trims, or embellishments, can be added
  • The final fabric can be selected based on the approved drape and any necessary modifications
  • A final mock-up in the fashion fabric may be created to confirm the fit and appearance
• Finalizing the design may involve collaboration with other members of the costume team
  • The costume designer may provide input on aesthetic choices and character interpretation
  • The costume shop manager may advise on fabric selection, construction methods, and budgetary considerations
  • The actor may offer feedback on comfort, ease of movement, and overall feel of the garment

Fabric manipulation techniques

• Fabric manipulation techniques involve altering the surface or structure of the fabric to create unique textures, patterns, or shapes
• These techniques can add visual interest, dimension, and character to a costume
• Incorporating fabric manipulation can elevate a costume design and showcase the designer's creativity and skill

Ruching and shirring

• Ruching is a technique that involves gathering and stitching fabric to create a rippled or pleated effect
  • Fabric is gathered along a seam or cord and secured with stitching
  • Ruching can be used to add texture, volume, or visual interest to a garment
  • It can also help control excess fabric and create a more fitted silhouette
• Shirring is a technique that involves creating multiple rows of gathers using elastic thread
  • Elastic thread is wound onto the bobbin of