8.3 Pattern making and sewing

Pattern making and sewing are essential skills in theater production. These techniques allow costume designers to create custom-fitted garments that bring characters to life on stage. From drafting patterns to cutting fabric and constructing costumes, each step requires precision and creativity.

Mastering these skills involves understanding various tools, measurements, and techniques. Designers must consider factors like fabric choice, historical accuracy, and actor comfort while creating costumes that enhance performances and withstand the rigors of multiple shows.

Pattern making fundamentals

• Pattern making is the process of creating a template from which parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before cutting and assembling
• Accurate patterns are essential for creating well-fitting costumes that match the designer's vision and the actor's measurements
• Understanding the tools, techniques, and principles of pattern making is crucial for any costume technician or designer in theater production

Tools of pattern making

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• Pattern making requires specialized tools such as measuring tapes, rulers, French curves, hip curves, and tracing wheels
• Scissors, shears, and paper scissors are used for cutting paper patterns and fabric
• Pencils, pens, and markers are used for marking and labeling pattern pieces
• Awls and punches are used for marking notches and holes on patterns

Measurements for patterns

• Accurate measurements of the actor's body are essential for creating well-fitting patterns
• Key measurements include chest, waist, hips, neck, shoulder, arm length, and inseam
• Additional measurements may be needed depending on the garment design, such as shoulder slope, back width, and bust point
• Measurements should be taken with the actor wearing appropriate undergarments and standing in a neutral position

Pattern paper types

• Pattern paper is a specialized type of paper used for creating and storing patterns
• Commonly used pattern paper types include kraft paper, oak tag, and manila paper
• Pattern paper should be sturdy enough to withstand multiple uses and tracings
• Some pattern makers prefer to use transparent paper or plastic for easier tracing and adjustments

Pattern symbols and markings

• Patterns use a standardized set of symbols and markings to indicate important information such as grainlines, fold lines, notches, and seam allowances
• Grainline arrows indicate the direction of the fabric's lengthwise grain and ensure proper alignment when cutting
• Notches are small triangular cuts used for matching seams and indicating the front or back of a pattern piece
• Seam allowances are the extra fabric added around the edges of the pattern to allow for seaming and finishing

Drafting patterns

• Drafting patterns involves creating a custom pattern from scratch based on the actor's measurements and the designer's sketches
• Patterns are typically drafted on paper using a combination of straight lines, curves, and measurements
• Drafting requires a strong understanding of garment construction, proportions, and fit

Drafting bodice patterns

• A bodice is the upper part of a garment that covers the torso from the shoulders to the waist
• Drafting a bodice pattern involves creating a basic block or sloper that fits the actor's measurements
• The basic bodice block is then manipulated to create different styles such as princess seams, darts, or gathered necklines
• Special considerations for bodice patterns include bust shaping, shoulder slope, and neckline placement

Drafting sleeve patterns

• Sleeves are an important part of many garments and can range from simple to complex designs
• Drafting sleeve patterns involves measuring the armhole of the bodice and creating a corresponding sleeve cap
• Sleeve patterns can be manipulated to create different styles such as puff sleeves, bell sleeves, or fitted sleeves
• Sleeve length, fullness, and cuff style are important considerations when drafting sleeve patterns

Drafting skirt and pant patterns

• Skirts and pants are lower body garments that can vary widely in style and fit
• Drafting skirt patterns involves creating a basic block that fits the waist and hips, then adding fullness, length, and design details
• Pant patterns require accurate measurements of the waist, hips, rise, and inseam to ensure proper fit and comfort
• Special considerations for skirt and pant patterns include waistband style, closures, and leg shape

Drafting collars and cuffs

• Collars and cuffs are design details that can add visual interest and functionality to a garment
• Drafting collar patterns involves measuring the neckline and creating a corresponding collar shape that fits smoothly
• Cuff patterns are typically drafted as an extension of the sleeve pattern and can be shaped to fit the wrist
• Different collar and cuff styles (Peter Pan, mandarin, French cuff) require specific pattern manipulations

Draping techniques

• Draping is the process of creating a pattern by manipulating fabric directly on a dress form or mannequin
• Draping allows for a more organic and intuitive approach to pattern making, as the designer can see the three-dimensional shape of the garment as it develops
• Draping is often used in combination with flat pattern making to refine and finalize designs

Draping tools and supplies

• Draping requires a dress form or mannequin that closely matches the actor's measurements and proportions
• Fabric for draping should have similar weight and drape to the final garment fabric
• Pins, scissors, and marking tools are used to hold the fabric in place and transfer markings to paper patterns
• A draping tape measure is used to take measurements and ensure accuracy

Draping on dress forms

• Draping on a dress form involves pinning and manipulating the fabric to create the desired shape and fit
• The fabric is typically draped on the bias (diagonal) to allow for more stretch and flexibility
• Darts, tucks, and gathers are used to shape the fabric and create volume
• The draped fabric is then transferred to paper to create a final pattern

Draping fabrics and materials

• Different fabrics and materials require different draping techniques and considerations
• Lightweight fabrics (chiffon, silk) may require more support and structure to maintain their shape
• Heavy fabrics (wool, denim) may require more ease and room for movement
• Knit fabrics (jersey, spandex) have stretch and recovery that must be accounted for in the draping process

Draping vs flat pattern making

• Draping and flat pattern making are two different approaches to creating patterns, each with their own advantages and disadvantages
• Draping allows for more creative freedom and experimentation, but can be time-consuming and requires a dress form
• Flat pattern making is more precise and can be done without a dress form, but may require more technical knowledge and adjustments
• Many designers use a combination of draping and flat pattern making to develop their final patterns

Altering patterns

• Altering patterns involves making changes to an existing pattern to improve fit, style, or functionality
• Pattern alterations can range from minor adjustments (lengthening a hem) to major redesigns (changing a neckline shape)
• Accurate measurements and a clear understanding of the desired changes are essential for successful pattern alterations

Altering for fit

• Altering patterns for fit involves making changes to the pattern to accommodate the actor's unique body shape and proportions
• Common fit alterations include lengthening or shortening the torso, adjusting the bust or hip fullness, and changing the shoulder slope
• Fit alterations may require multiple fittings and adjustments to achieve the desired result
• Accurate measurements and a clear understanding of the actor's body are essential for successful fit alterations

Grading patterns for sizes

• Grading patterns involves creating a range of sizes from a single pattern by incrementally increasing or decreasing the measurements
• Grading is typically done using a standardized size chart or set of measurements for each size
• Grading requires a strong understanding of proportions and how different body measurements relate to each other
• Specialized grading tools and software can make the process more efficient and accurate

Adding design details to patterns

• Adding design details to patterns involves modifying the pattern to incorporate specific style elements or features
• Design details can include pockets, ruffles, pleats, or decorative seams
• Adding design details may require additional pattern pieces or modifications to the original pattern shape
• Designers must consider the overall balance and proportion of the garment when adding design details

Truing and blending pattern lines

• Truing and blending pattern lines involves smoothing and refining the edges and curves of the pattern pieces to ensure a clean and accurate fit
• Truing ensures that all seams and edges match up correctly and have the appropriate seam allowance
• Blending involves smoothing out jagged or uneven lines to create a more fluid and continuous shape
• Truing and blending are important steps in finalizing a pattern and preparing it for cutting and sewing

Cutting fabric from patterns

• Cutting fabric from patterns is the process of transferring the pattern shapes onto the fabric and cutting out the individual pieces
• Accurate and precise cutting is essential for ensuring that the garment fits and drapes correctly on the actor's body
• Cutting requires a sharp scissors, a large flat surface, and a steady hand

Preparing fabric for cutting

• Preparing fabric for cutting involves selecting the appropriate fabric type and amount, washing and pressing the fabric, and aligning the fabric grain
• The fabric should be laid out flat and smooth, with the selvage edges aligned and the fabric grain straight
• If the fabric has a nap or directional print, all pattern pieces must be laid out in the same direction
• The fabric may need to be pre-shrunk or treated before cutting to prevent future shrinkage or damage

Laying out patterns on fabric

• Laying out patterns on fabric involves arranging the pattern pieces on the fabric in the most efficient and economical way possible
• The pattern pieces should be laid out with the grainline arrows parallel to the fabric selvage and with enough space between pieces for seam allowances
• If the fabric has a large print or pattern, the pattern pieces may need to be arranged to match or center the design
• Pinning the pattern pieces to the fabric ensures that they stay in place during cutting

Cutting techniques and tools

• Cutting fabric requires sharp scissors or shears that are appropriate for the fabric type and thickness
• Fabric should be cut in a single, smooth motion, with the scissors held perpendicular to the fabric surface
• Notches and markings should be cut accurately and carefully to ensure proper alignment during sewing
• A rotary cutter and cutting mat can be used for straight edges and long cuts

Transferring pattern markings

• Transferring pattern markings involves copying the important symbols and lines from the paper pattern onto the fabric pieces
• Marking tools include tracing paper and wheel, tailor's chalk, and fabric pens or pencils
• Markings should be transferred accurately and clearly, with consideration for the fabric type and color
• Markings may include darts, pleats, buttonholes, and other design details that are essential for construction

Sewing construction techniques

• Sewing construction techniques are the methods and processes used to assemble the cut fabric pieces into a finished garment
• Sewing requires a sewing machine, thread, needles, and other specialized tools and equipment
• Proper sewing techniques ensure that the garment is durable, well-constructed, and matches the designer's vision

Hand sewing vs machine sewing

• Hand sewing involves using a needle and thread to stitch fabric pieces together by hand
• Hand sewing is often used for delicate fabrics, small details, or areas that are difficult to reach with a machine
• Machine sewing uses a sewing machine to stitch fabric pieces together quickly and efficiently
• Machine sewing is used for most garment construction, with different stitch types and lengths available for different fabrics and seams

Seam types and finishes

• Seams are the lines where two fabric pieces are stitched together, and can vary in type and finish depending on the garment design and fabric
• Common seam types include plain, French, flat-felled, and bias-bound seams, each with their own strengths and uses
• Seam finishes are used to prevent fraying and provide a clean edge, and can include serging, pinking, and binding
• The choice of seam type and finish depends on the fabric type, garment style, and desired appearance

Darts, gathers, and pleats

• Darts are stitched triangular folds used to shape fabric and provide fullness or contour to the garment
• Gathers are small folds of fabric that are bunched together to create fullness and volume
• Pleats are larger, more structured folds that are pressed or stitched in place to create design details or fullness
• Darts, gathers, and pleats are used to create shape, drape, and visual interest in garments

Zippers, buttons, and closures

• Zippers, buttons, and other closures are used to secure garments and provide ease of dressing
• Zippers can be installed by hand or machine, with different techniques used for different zipper types (standard, invisible, separating)
• Buttons and buttonholes can be sewn by hand or machine, with different styles and placements used for different garment types
• Other closures include snaps, hooks and eyes, and Velcro, each with their own installation techniques and uses

Fitting and alterations

• Fitting and alterations are the processes of adjusting the garment to fit the actor's body properly and make any necessary changes to the design or construction
• Fittings typically involve the actor trying on the garment in various stages of completion, with the costume technician making adjustments and markings as needed
• Alterations are the changes made to the garment based on the fitting, and can range from minor adjustments to major reconstructions

Fitting garments on actors

• Fitting garments on actors involves having the actor try on the garment and assessing the fit, comfort, and appearance
• The actor should stand in a neutral position and move around to check for ease and range of motion
• The costume technician should look for areas of pulling, gaping, or bunching, and make note of any necessary adjustments
• Multiple fittings may be required to achieve the desired fit and style

Common fit issues and solutions

• Common fit issues include garments that are too tight or too loose, uneven hemlines, gaping necklines, and pulling or twisting seams
• Solutions may involve letting out or taking in seams, adjusting darts or pleats, or re-cutting pattern pieces
• Fit issues may be caused by incorrect measurements, pattern drafting errors, or changes in the actor's body
• Proper communication and collaboration between the actor, designer, and costume technician is essential for resolving fit issues

Altering garments for fit

• Altering garments for fit involves making changes to the garment to improve the fit and comfort for the actor
• Alterations may include taking in or letting out seams, adjusting the length of the garment, or re-shaping the garment to fit the actor's body
• Alterations should be made carefully and gradually to avoid over-correcting or damaging the garment
• The actor should try on the garment after each alteration to ensure that the fit is improving and the desired result is achieved

Hemming and finishing touches

• Hemming is the process of finishing the bottom edge of the garment to the desired length and style
• Hems can be sewn by hand or machine, with different techniques used for different fabric types and garment styles
• Finishing touches include adding any final design details, such as buttons, trim, or embellishments
• The garment should be pressed and inspected for any final adjustments or repairs before being worn on stage

Specialty costume considerations

• Specialty costumes are garments that require unique materials, techniques, or design considerations beyond standard clothing construction
• Specialty costumes may include period garments, dancewear, armor, mascots, or costumes with unusual materials or features
• Creating specialty costumes requires additional research, planning, and problem-solving to ensure that the garment is functional, comfortable, and visually appropriate

Period costume pattern making

• Period costume pattern making involves researching and recreating the clothing styles and construction techniques of a specific historical era
• Period patterns may require specialized drafting techniques, such as draping or flat-patterning based on historical garments or illustrations
• Period costumes often involve unique undergarments, layering, and accessories that must be accounted for in the pattern and construction
• Attention to historical accuracy and detail is important for creating convincing and authentic period costumes

Dancewear and movement

• Dancewear and movement costumes require special considerations for flexibility, ease of movement, and durability
• Stretch fabrics, such as spandex or lycra, are often used to allow for full range of motion and comfort during dance or acrobatic movements
• Seams and closures must be strategically placed and reinforced to prevent splitting or gaping during movement
• Dancewear often involves special features such as built-in bras, trunks, or support panels for modesty and comfort

Costume armor and structure

• Costume armor and structured garments require special patterning and construction techniques to create the desired shape and appearance
• Armor may be created using materials such as leather, foam, or thermoplastics, which require unique shaping and assembly techniques
• Structured garments, such as corsets or hoop skirts, involve special boning, wiring, or layering to achieve the desired silhouette
• Safety and comfort are important considerations when creating armor or structured garments, as the actor must be able to move and breathe easily

Fur, feathers, and unusual materials

• Fur, feathers, and other unusual materials require special handling and construction techniques to create a convincing and durable costume
• Fur can be real or synthetic, and may require special cutting, sewing, and finishing techniques to maintain the pile and prevent shedding
• Feathers can be attached individually or in strips, and may require special adhesives or stitching techniques to secure them to the garment
• Unusual materials, such as plastic, foam, or paper, may require experimentation and problem-solving to determine the best construction methods
• Proper care and maintenance of these materials is important for ensuring the longevity and appearance of the costume.